Back on Ronga Road, the route cuts through the paddocks of a river valley before climbing through attractive native bush to reach the first stunning views of Croisilles Harbour and out to the west coast of D’Urville Island. The first settlement of any consequence is Okiwi Bay, a secret little haunt of many a boatie Nelsonite. Okiwi provides a great base from which to go sailing or fishing in the quiet undisturbed bays of the Sounds westernmost coastline.
Just past Okiwi Bay the road passes through some beautiful tracts of beech forest before becoming unsealed. It is another 40 km to French Pass but after just a few kilometres the views of the sounds really open up and damage to your hire car will be the last thing on your mind. From Elaine Bay the road clings precariously to bush-clad ridges giving you a glimpse of the scenic splendour, before the trees peter out and D’Urville Island comes into view. You then head along the western side of the now bare ridge to French Pass. On the way, take the short detour to the top of the hill with the transmitters. From there you can soak up another stunning vista of Tennyson Inlet.
French Pass is really nothing more than a row of houses and a DoC campsite in a small sheltered bay at the very tip of the mainland. It takes its name from the nautical nightmare that is just around the corner. The best view of this alarmingly slim channel of water can be seen from a path that leads down to a viewing point from the road (about 1 km before the settlement). At anytime, but particularly mid-tide, the chaotic currents can be seen forcing their way between the mainland and D’Urville Island. First discovered by D’Urville in 1827, this passage is a very important point on the nautical map because it offers an enticing short cut between Wellington and Nelson. If you are lucky you can time your visit to coincide with the passage of a ship. Some are so large you swear they will never make it and you can almost shout hello to the captain on the bridge, wave, and then tell him to watch where he is going.
French Pass is not only famous for its scenery, pass or shipping. Without doubt the most famous sight and resident was Pelorus Jack .
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