Auckland travel guide

According to Maori legend, when Maui (founder of New Zealand/Aotearoa) fished up the North Island, his efforts to subdue his catch created the islands of the Hauraki (the scales) and the bays and the beaches of the Isthmus (the wounds). Maori gods of the Ocean and Wind further shaped and modified the geography and created the warm moist climate. It was the gods of the resident giant, Mataaho, who created the volcanoes (legend has it he was cold) with their most recent piece of central heating being Rangitoto Island, which guards the mouth of the Waitamata Harbour.

The first Maoris to settle in the area were thought to be moa hunters (moa being the once numerous, but now extinct, flightless New Zealand bird) before AD 1000. But later, from the 12th to 14th centuries, further migrations and waka (Maori canoes) brought first the Nga-Oho and later the Nga-Tai and Nga-Marama tribes. The latter, led by the ambitious Kiwi Tamaki, ruled for some time, taking up residence in pa (Maori settlements, often fortified) on almost every volcano in the district, including a main pa on what is now named One Tree Hill. But his reign did not last and, after a brutal conflict with other hapu (sub tribes), particularly the Ngati-Whatua from the Kaipara district to the north, he succumbed. This, together with an epidemic of smallpox brought by the early Europeans, meant the area became relatively unpopulated.

All this changed in 1820, with the first official visit by Pakeha (white Europeans), which in the form of the Reverends Samuel Marsden and John Gare Butler, two missionaries who were keen to expand their teachings beyond the Bay of Islands. From that point more organized integration and low-key European settlement began. But it was not until 20 years later, in 1840, on the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, that New Zealand’s Lieutenant Governor, Captain William Hobson, bought a 3000-acre ‘pie shaped’ part of the isthmus from the Ngati-Whatua for £55 and a few blankets. He called this area Auckland, after George Eden second Baron Auckland, then governor general of India, probably in return for giving him command of HMS Rattlesnake in which Hobson first visited New Zealand in 1837. Hobson’s intention was to create a new capital of New Zealand, the original settlements of the Bay of Islands, particularly Russell, having a distinctly unsavoury and disobedient population.

And so, for a short time, Auckland became the capital and the focus for the invading pioneers. One such pioneer, a Scots medic called Logan Campbell, took full advantage of Hobson’s acquisition for the Crown and, in the first years of its existence, took almost total control of half the fast expanding ‘pie’. He became mayor of the settlement and the so-called ‘Father of Auckland’.

The rapidly growing demand for more land created great conflict with the Maori, contributing in part to the New Zealand Land Wars of the 1860s. Presumably, the Maori were beginning to realize that, in exchange for a few quid and some basic goods, they were fast losing ‘mana’ (presence, standing, integrity or honour) as well as their indigenous and rightful control.

Thanks to the Land Wars, and the discovery of gold elsewhere in Otago and in the nearby Coromandel, Auckland floundered a little. To add insult to injury, in 1865 Auckland lost its status as capital to Wellington and with it the seat of government.
However, towards the end of the 1800s, thanks to its fertile soils and climate and the brief but explosive ‘Kauri’ years – when there was widespread deforestation of the Kauri tree – Auckland’s fortunes changed and the ‘squashed pie’ rapidly became the ‘full bakery’. The rate at which Auckland continued to develop during the 20th century was astonishing. The irresistible combination of geography, climate, industry, agriculture and business opportunities has seen the population explode, creating the thriving cosmopolitan city we see today.

Banks

There are numerous outlets along Queen St and within the CBD. American Express Currency Exchange, 105 Queen St, City; also at NZ Cup Village, Quay St, City; and 67-69 Symonds St, City. ANZ Banking Group, 126 and 268 Queen and Victoria St, T04-472 7123/ T0800-269296, http://www.anz.co.nz. ASB Bank Ltd, corner of Queen and Wellesley sts, T0800- 803804/ T09-306 3011, http://www.asbbank.co.nz. Bank of New Zealand, 80 Queen St, T09- 375 1300/T0800-240000, http://www.bnz.co.nz.

National Bank of New Zealand, 205 Queen St, T09-359 9826/ T0800-181818, http://www.nationalbank.co.nz. Travelex, 32 and 157 Queen St, T0800-4401100. Westpac Trust, 79 Queen St, T09-302 4200/T0800- 400600, http://www.westpac.co.nz.

Disabled facilities

Auckland Disabilities Resource Centre, 14 Erson Av, Royal Oak, T09-6258069, http://www.disabilityresource.org.nz.

Enable, T0800-362253, http://www.enable.co.nz.

Embassies and consulates

Australia 7th floor, 188 Quay St, City, T09-921 8800. Canada 9th floor, 48 Emily Pl, City, T09-309 3690. Denmark 7th floor Harbour View Building, 152 Quay St, City, T09-537 3099. Germany 6th floor, 52 Symonds St, City, T09-913 3674. Ireland 7th floor, Citibank Blg, 23 Customs St East, City, T09-977 2252. Japan Level 12, ASB Bank Centre, 135 Albert St, City, T09-303 4106. Korea Level 10, Sofrana House, 396 Queen St, T09-379 0818. Netherlands Level 1, 57 Symonds St, City, T09-379 5399. Sweden 13th floor, 13 O’Connell St, City, T09-373 5332. UK IAG House, 151 Queen St, City, T09-303 2973. USA Level 3, Citibank Centre, 23 Customs St East, T09-303 2724.

Gay and lesbian

Express Magazine available from outlets of Maggazzino .

Pride, T09-302 0590, http://www.pride.org.nz.

Internet

Readily available in the CBD including: Auckland City Library, 44-46 Lorne St, City, T09-377 0209. CyberDatez, 320 Queen St, City, T09-3770320. Cyber Max Café, Level 1, 291 Queen St, City, T09-9792468. Net Zone, 4 Fort St, City, T09-3773906.

Laundry

Clean Green Laundromat, 18 Fort St, T09-358 4370, Mon-Sat 0900-2000.

Left luggage

Auckland International Airport, T09-275 6467, daily 0600-2300.

Downtown Bus Terminal, corner of Quay St and Albert St, Mon-Fri 0700- 1900, Sat-Sun 0700-1800.

Sky City Bus Terminal, Hobson St, daily 0700-2200.

Libraries

Central City Library, 44-46 Lorne St, City, T09-377 0209, Mon-Thu 0930-2000, Fri 0930-2100, Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1300-1700.

Medical services

Accident and medical centres

Ponsonby Accident and Emergency, 202 Ponsonby Rd, T09-376 5555. Shorecare, 209 Shakespeare Rd, Takapuna, T09-486 7777. Westcare, 57-75 Lincoln Rd, Henderson, T09-836 6000. White Cross St Lukes, 52 St Lukes Rd, St Lukes, T09-815 3111.

Hospitals

Auckland Hospital, Park Rd, Grafton, T09-367 0000. Greenlane Hospital, Greenlane Rd West, Greenlane, T09-367 0000. Middlemore Hospital, Hospital Rd, Otahuhu, T09-276 0000. North Shore Hospital, Shakespeare Rd, Takapuna, T09-486 8930. Waitakere Hospital, Lincoln Rd, Henderson, T09-839 0000.

Police

Emergency

Dial 111. Main police station is at the corner of Cook and Vincent sts, City, T09-302 6400.

Post offices

Main post office and post restante, Wellesley St West, City, T09-379 6714, Mon-Fri 0730- 1730. Additional branches at 23 Customs St, T09-302 1059; 167 Victoria St West, T09- 367 9617; and Downtown Shopping Centre, Queen St, T09-309 6343.

Supermarkets

There are Night Owl or Star 24-hr grocery stores on Queen St and the waterfront.

Foodtown, 76 Quay St.

New World, 2 College Hill, City (near Victoria Park on the Link bus route), daily until 2400.

Travel agents

Auckland Central Travel, corner of Queen and Darby sts, City, T09-358 4877, www.acb. co.nz, Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat-Sun 0800- 1700. Backpacker-friendly adventure travel shop, free information and discounted rates on rentals, rail, coaches, ferries, tours.

Backpackers World Travel, 23 Victoria St East, City, T09-368 1742.
STA Travel, 267 and Level 10 220 Queen St, City, T0508-782872/T09-309 0458.

Some of the most popular national events include the free ‘Opera’ and ‘Christmas in the Park’. Both are held annually in the Auckland Domain over the Christmas period (dates vary) and can attract up to 100,000 people. For details see http://www.eventsauckland.com, http://www.aucklandnz.com and http://www.nzlive.com.

Bikes, scooters and motorcycles

These are a brave option in Auckland, given the way people drive. Unless you are an experienced city cyclist, it’s safest to stick to walking, buses or a car. However, outside the city centre and major suburbs, bike and motorcycle touring can be a joy.

Bus

Public transport is a major bone of contention in Auckland as traffic congestion clogs the city’s roads and pollutes the air. Although adequate for the average visitor, it is generally poor and improvements are not happening fast enough. Most central and suburban buses stop at the Britomart Transport Centre (BBT), centrally located between Customs and Quay streets near the waterfront (bottom of Queen Street). Information can be obtained from the terminal itself or all major tourist information offices and by contacting MAXX, T09-366 6400/T0800-103080, http://www.rideline.co.nz. This website also offers a convenient journey planner.

The principal suburban carrier is Stagecoach, http://www.stagecoach.co.nz, which offers a ‘Discovery Pass’ allowing unlimited travel on bus, ferry and train for $14, or $39 for seven days. The excellent Auckland City Loop ‘Link’ bus is an ideal way to get about the city centre and charges a flat fare of $1.50 for each journey.

Car

Most of the major sights and attractions are centrally located and can be accessed on foot or by bus or ferry. For longer stays a car is recommended due to the urban sprawl. Car ownership per capita in Auckland is one of the highest in the world and you will quickly see that Auckland is not only a ‘City of Sails’ but also a ‘City of Wheels’; driving can be hazardous and rush hour is best avoided. Metered and multi-storey parking costs up to $6 an hour and traffic wardens are omnipresent. There are more car rental companies than you could shake a gear stick at, ranging from fully insured, nearly-new cars, to dodgy looking rent-a-dents.

Taxi

All Auckland taxi drivers are required to belong to a registered taxi company. This sets certain standards, but that is no guarantee of good English or not being taken via ‘the scenic route’. Meters are usually based on time, not distance, so it often pays to get an estimate first. Typical rates are around $2.50 base charge and then about $2 per kilometre. Taxis are widely available and can be flagged down, ordered by phone or picked up at numerous city centre ranks.

Train

Auckland has a scant suburban rail network operating out of the Britomart Terminal between Customs and Quay streets near the waterfront. For local suburban rail information contact MAXX, T09-366 6400, http://www.maxx.co.nz. The Auckland to Wellington ‘Overlander’ service is operated by TranzScenic, T04-495 0775/T0800- 872467, http://www.tranzscenic.co.nz, which also runs from the Britomart Terminal. Further information about routes and timetables can be obtained from VICs and the terminal itself. Reservations can be made at all mainstream travel agents.

Airport information

Most visitors arrive by air . Auckland International Airport (AKL) (20 km south of centre, T09-275 0789, http://www.auckland-airport.co.nz) is a relatively small, modern and friendly gateway to the nation. On the ground floor there is an Airport I-Site Information Centre, T09-256 8535, open from 0500 until the last flight, which provides transport details, baggage storage and can help book hotels. The hospitality ambassadors (smiley folk in bright blue jackets) or customer service officers (red jackets and splendid hats) can also offer assistance. Airport facilities include shops, food outlets, mailboxes, internet, crêche, free showers (towel hire from the Airways Florist shop on the ground floor) and telephones. Phone cards are sold at the information kiosk and most major outlets on the ground floor. There are also day rooms for hire that contain a bed, desk, TV, coffee, tea and shower facilities, from $30 for four hours (tickets at Airways Florist). Showers are free.

Transport

Air

Air New Zealand flies regularly to most provincial centres including Wellington (10 daily, 1 hr, $100-240), and Christchurch (18 daily, 1 hr 20 mins, $80-190). Tickets are best secured in advance on the internet.

Domestic airline offices

Air New Zealand, corner of Customs and Queen St, City, T09-357 3000/T0800- 737000, http://www.airnewzealand.co.nz.

Great Barrier Airlines, Auckland International Airport (Domestic Terminal), T09-275 9120/T0800-900600.

Great Barrier Express, Auckland International Airport (Domestic Terminal), T0800-900600/T09-275 9120, http://www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz.

Mountain Air, T0800-222123/T09-256 7025, http://www.mountainair.co.nz.

International airline offices

Aerolineas Argentinas, 15th floor ASB Centre, 135 Albert St, T09-379 3675.

American Airlines, 191 Queen St, City, T0800-887999.

Air Canada, Level 5, 120 Albert St, City, T09-969 7470.

Air Pacific, Sofrana House, 396 Queen St, T09-379 2404, http://www.airpacific.com.

Air Vanuatu, 2nd floor, West Plaza Building, corner Customs and Albert St, City, T03-733435, http://www.airvanuatu.com.

British Airways, T09-966 9777, http://www.ba.com.

Cathay Pacific, 11th floor, National Bank Tower, 205 Queen St, T09-379 0861.

Freedom Air, T0800-600500.

Garuda Indonesia, Westpac Trust Tower, 120 Albert St, T09-366 1862, http://www.garuda-indonesia.com.

Japan Airlines, Westpac Trust Tower, 120 Albert St, T09-379 9906.

Korean Airlines, 120 Albert St, City,

T09-9142000, http://www.koreanair.com.

Lufthansa Airlines, T09-303 1529.

Malaysia Airlines, 120 Albert St, T09-373 2741.

Polynesian Airlines, Samoa House, 283 K’Rd, City, T09-262 4197.

Qantas Airlines, 191 Queen St, City, T0800-808767/T09-357 8900.

Singapore Airlines, West Plaza Building, corner of Albert and Fanshawe sts, City, T0800-750760, http://www.singaporeair.co.nz.

Bicycles

Adventure Cycles, 1 Laurie Av, Parnell, T09-309 5566, www.adventure- auckland.co.nz/advcychm. For bike hire. Great service with a free helmet provided, lock, tool kit and water bottle, plus maps and tips. Prices range from about $35 a day to $200 a month. Also offers a 50% buy-back for up to 6 months, which equates to the rental rate for 1 month when an inexpensive bike is purchased, and is a good deal.

Bus

Local

MAXX, T09-366 6400, http://www.maxx.co.nz. Has a detailed telephone information service on all major local city transport carriers routes, prices and connections with ferry services.

Stagecoach, T09-366 6400, www.stage coach.co.nz. Publishes an Auckland Busabout Guide, available from the bus terminal and all major VICs, showing routes and departure points for the main city attractions. Fares are on a staged system 1-8 and range between $1.30-7.50. They offer a ‘Discovery Pass’ allowing unlimited travel on board bus/ferry/train for $14; 7-day $39.

‘City Circuit’ is an environmentally friendly electric red bus providing a free service around the immediate city centre every 10 mins, daily 0800-1800.

The Auckland City Loop ‘Link’ is a good way to get around the city centre. Each journey costs $1.50 and buses run every 10 mins on weekdays 0600-1900, every 15 mins evenings and weekends 0700- 1800. You will feel like a sardine at rush hour. The route (which goes both ways) runs from the city centre (Britomart)-Quay Park-Parnell-Newmarket-Hospital-University- AUT-Library-Myers Park-K’Rd-Ponsonby- Victoria Park-Casino/Sky City-Mid Queen St-Britomart. For further details and information, see the website: http://www.stagecoach.co.nz/citycircuit.

The Double Decker ‘Explorer’, T0800- 439756, http://www.explorerbus.co.nz, bus has all day sightseeing with commentary; $30 day pass, $15 for 1hr ride.

Long distance

The 2 main players providing standard coach travel from Auckland to destinations throughout New Zealand day and night are: Intercity Coach Lines, T09-623 1503, http://www.intercitycoach.co.nz; and Newman’s, http://www.newmanscoach.co.nz. All coaches arrive/depart from the Sky City Coach Terminal, 102 Hobson St, City (round the corner from the Sky Tower), T09-638 5700, Mon-Fri 0700-2200, Sat-Sun 0700-2000. Northliner Express, T09-3075873, http://www.northliner.co.nz, offers a valued service to a number of North Island destinations, especially Northland. Concession fares apply. Buses arrive and depart from the Northliner Travel Centre, HSBC Building (opposite the Ferry Building), 172 Quay St.

Car

If you own a car and have been drinking, there is a wonderful service in Auckland called Dial-a-Driver, T0800-800000/T09-828 6398. A sober employee drives you and your car to your chosen destination while another driver follows in a company car. The drivers are generally friendly and immensely stoic.

Car hire

Take time to find a good deal through the main VICs. A new, fully insured car without mileage costs from around $75 a day.

For a cheap, no nonsense deal, try Scotties Ask about the ‘buy-back deals’ and drop-off arrangements with its sister operation in Christchurch.

A2B Rentals, 11 Stanley St, City, T0800-222929, http://www.a2brentals.co.nz .

Action Rent-a-Car, 30 Grayson Av, T09- 277 4422, http://www.action-rent-a-car.co.nz. Free pick-up, 24-hr service.

Affordable Rental Cars and Vans, 48 Carr Rd, Mt Roskill, T0800-454443/ T09-630 1567, http://www.car-rental.co.nz.

Alternative Rental Cars, 115 Beach Rd, City, T09-373 3822, http://www.hireacar.co.nz.

Apex Rental Cars, 39 Beach Rd, City/ 30 Rennie Drive, Airport, T09-257 0292/ T0800-500660, http://www.apexrentals.co.nz.

Avis, 17/19 Nelson St, City, T09-379 2650.

Big Save Car Rentals, 39-43 The Strand, Parnell, T0800-422771.

Budget Rent A Car, 163 Beach Rd, City, T09-976 2270, http://www.budget.co.nz.

Hertz, 154 Victoria St, T09-3676360.

Rent-a-Dent, 45 Union St, City, T09-309 0066.

Scotties, 27 New North Rd, Eden Terr, T09-303 3912.

Thrifty Car Rental, Airport, T09-366 0562/ T0800-737070, http://www.thrifty.co.nz.

Campervan hire

Adventure Campervans, 2 Beach Rd, Otahuhu, T09-276 7100/T0800-123555, http://www.nzmotorhomes.co.nz.

Backpacker Campervan Rentals, 36 Richard Pearse Drive, Mangere (3 km from Auckland Airport) T09-275 0200/ T0800-422267, www.backpackercamper vans.com. Offices in Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown.

Britz Motorhomes, 36 Richard Pearse Drive, Mangere, T09-255 0620/T0800-831900, http://www.britz.com. Offices in Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown.

Kea Campers, 36 Hillside Rd, T0800-520052/ T09-4417833, http://www.keacampers.com. Offices throughout the country.

KiwiKombis, 96 Uxbridge Rd, Howick, T09-533 9335, http://www.kiwikombis.com. The iconic if slow old favourite.

Maui Motorhomes, 36 Richard Pearse Drive, Mangere, T09-255 0620/T0800-651080, http://www.maui-rentals.com.

Spaceships, 31 Beach Rd, CBD, T09-309 8777, http://www.spaceships.tv. ‘Kick-ass’ campervans at the top end of the scale, equipped with everything you might need.

Tui Campers, 142 Robertson Rd, Mangere East, T03-359 7410, http://www.tuicampers.co.nz.

Ferry

For further information about ferry services, contact the VIC.

Fullers, ground floor of the Ferry Building, T09-367 9111/T09-3676892, http://www.fullers.co.nz. The main ferry company.

Rubens Water Taxi, Viaduct Basin, T09-422 8881/T0800-111616, www.water taxi.co.nz. Not quite as popular as in Sydney Harbour, but these are a good way of zipping over to the North Shore or the eastern suburbs.

Scooter and motorcycle

NZ Motorcycle Rentals and Tours, 35 Crummer Rd, Ponsonby, T09-360 7940, http://www.nzbike.com. An award-winning national company. It hires out a range of bikes from the 50 cc sensible sewing machines to the 1100 cc scary monsters, all at reasonable rates.

Taxi

Alert Taxis, T09-309 2000.

Auckland Taxi Co-op, T09-300 3000.

Citicabs, T09-300 1111.

Corporate Cabs, T09-377 0773.
Discount Taxis, T09-529 1000.

The heart of the city centre is the CBD (Central Business District) and the main drag of Queen Street. On either side, the jungle of high-rises gives way occasionally to older buildings like the Auckland Art Gallery and the green inner city sanctuaries of Albert Park and The Domain, with its crowning glory, the Auckland Museum. Immediately to the north, the Waitamata Harbour calls a halt to the concrete, and ferries and sails take over on the waterfront where the historic Ferry Building looks almost out of place compared to the ugly, modern tower blocks that back it.

Along the waterfront is the yachting focal point of the Viaduct Basin, the former America’s Cup Village and the Maritime Museum. Across the Harbour Bridge is the huge expanse of North Shore City, while closer, and immediately across the Waitamata Harbour, is the small and attractive suburb of Devonport, with its village feel. It boasts the volcanic cones of Mount Victoria and North Head, both of which offer great views. Around the corner are the relatively calm and safe beaches of the North Shore, stretching to the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and the edge of the city, 40 km away.

East of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula is the Hauraki Gulf, with its glistening waters and magical islands playing host to swarms of yachties. To the north, just off the Whangaparaoa Peninsula, is Tiritiri Matangi Island, an open bird sanctuary. Beyond Tiri is the small but mountainous Little Barrier Island. East again, in the far distance, is Great Barrier Island, Auckland’s beautiful getaway. Closer, is the most obvious and famous island, Rangitoto, with its classic volcanic cone and green botanical blanket, guarding the entrance to the harbour. Next to Rangitoto are Browns and Motuihe islands and, behind them, Waiheke, the Gulf’s most visited and populous island.

Back on the mainland, the eastern suburbs of Mission Bay and St Heliers stretch towards the distant Asian enclave of Howick. These seaside suburbs attract many visitors and Aucklanders, most of whom follow the waterside Tamaki Drive to soak up the sun on the beaches or bathe in the shallow bays.

Dominating the southern horizon are two of the most well-known volcanic mounts in the city, Mount Eden and One Tree Hill. South from these impressive landmarks, the low-income suburbs of South Auckland spread unceasingly to the southern city limits of the Bombay Hills. Within these suburbs are the Auckland Botanical Gardens. Thankfully, nature has called a halt to city expansion to the west in the impressive form of the bush-clad Waitakere Ranges. The lower-income suburb streets of Henderson and Glendene give way to the expensive dwellings of Titirangi. The inner western suburbs host the Auckland Zoo and Museum of Transport and Technology (MOTAT), both of which border the pleasant lakeside park of Western Springs.

Finally, the best place to find your bearings is the observation decks of the amazing Sky Tower, especially on a clear day.