Recognized for its representation of the evolution and diversity of eucalypts on the Australian continent.
The ‘Blues’, as they are affectionately known, form part of the Great Dividing Range, 70 km, or two hours, west of Sydney, and contain no less than five national parks covering a total area of 10,000 sq km. They are not really mountains at all, but a network of eroded river valleys, gorges, and bluffs, that have formed over millions of years. The result is a huge wonderland of natural features, from precipitous cliffs, to dramatic waterfalls and canyons, not to mention the most dramatic limestone caves on the continent.
Once the home of the Daruk Aboriginals, the Blue Mountains were seen by the first Europeans merely as a highly inconvenient barrier to the interior and for almost a quarter of a century they remained that way, before finally being traversed in 1813 by explorers Blaxland, Wentworth and Lawson. To this day the impenetrable geography still limits transportation and essentially the same two convict-built roads and railway line completed over a century ago reach west through a string of settlements from Glenbrook to Lithgow on the other side. For decades the ‘Blues’ have been a favourite weekend or retirement destination for modern-day Sydney escapees, who welcome the distinctly cooler temperatures and the colourful seasons that the extra elevation creates. But superb scenery and climate aside, there are some excellent walking opportunities, as well as abseiling, canyoning and rock climbing. Given the region’s popularity there are also a glut of good restaurants and a wide range of places to stay from showpiece backpackers to romantic hideaways.
For tourist information, the main accredited VICs are in Glenbrook, Katoomba (Echo Point, T1300 653408, http://www.visitbluemountains.com.au, daily 0900-1700), Lithgow (Great Western Highway, T6350 3230, http://www.tourism.lithgow.com, 0900-1700), and Oberon (west, near the Jenolan Caves). The main NPWS office is at the Heritage Centre (near Govetts Leap, Blackheath, T4787 8877, http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au). If you are approaching from the east, stop at the Glenbrook VIC to begin with and stock up with the free visitor’s guide and maps. All regional centres also offer a free accommodation bookings service. The NPWS stock a wide range of books covering the numerous walks within the national parks, as well as topographical maps.
The national parks
The Blue Mountains region contains five national parks which cover an area of 10,000 sq km, with half of that being considered ‘wilderness area’. The largest, at an expansive 4876 sq km (and the second largest in the state after Kosciuszko National Park) is Wollemi National Park, to the north of the Bells Line of Road. It incorporates the state’s most extensive officially recognized wilderness area and is very rugged and inaccessible. As well as its complex geology, topography, Aboriginal art sites and botanical features, it is also home to a rich variety of birds. Of all the parks in the region it is the one for the well-prepared modern-day explorer. There are basic NPWS campsites at Wheeny Creek, Colo Meroo, Dun’s Swamp and Newnes. The main access is from Putty Road, 100 km northwest of Sydney or via Rylstone.
The most famous and accessible park is the 2470-sq-km Blue Mountains National Park, straddling the Great Western Highway and a string of mountain villages and towns, from Glenbrook in the east to Lithgow in the west. Only recently expanded in the 1980s, it contains natural features that range from deep canyons and forested valleys to pinnacles and waterfalls, as well as an abundance of flora and fauna. Although now receiving over one million visitors a year, much of the park remains extremely inaccessible, with over 500 sq km considered official wilderness area. Sadly, the Blue Mountains, like so many national parks in NSW, has suffered in recent years from the temporary impact of widespread bush fires. There are basic NPWS campsites at Euroka Clearing near Glenbrook, Ingar near Wentworth Falls and Perry’s Lookdown near Blackheath. You can also camp anywhere within 500 m from roads and facilities. Access is from many points east and west off the Great Western Highway, or from the Bells Line of Road 70 km west of Sydney.
Next up is the beautiful 680-sq-km Kanangra-Boyd National Park, to the southwest of Katoomba. Fringed by the Blue Mountains National Park on all but one side it contains a similar geology and topography but is particularly famous for two natural features, the Jenolan limestone caves and the Kanangra Walls (a series of outstanding bluffs). Both are well worth visiting, with the latter considered one of the great walks in the region. There is a basic NPWS campsite at Boyd River. Access is via Mount Victoria and the Jenolan Caves 180 km west of Sydney.
To the southeast of Kanangra-Boyd and the Blue Mountains National Parks is the 860-sq-km Nattai National Park. It touches the region’s largest body of water, Lake Burragorang, and contains the region’s largest populations of eastern grey kangaroos as well as many rare plants and animals. NPWS camping near the lake. Access is 110 km south of Sydney between Warragamba Dam and Wombeyan Caves Road.
The smallest national park in the group is the 12,000-ha Gardens of Stone National Park north of Lithgow. Adjoining Wollemi it is most noted for its prominent and shapely limestone outcrops and sandstone escarpments. Birdlife is once again prolific. There are no campsites. Access is 30 km north of Lithgow via Mudgee Road.
(For more information on the Blue Mountains, see also the towns of Katoomba, Leura and Lithgow.)...
