Mae Hong Son travel guide

Background

Mae Hong Son Province is about as far removed from ‘Thailand’ as you are likely to get, with only an estimated 2% of the population here being ethnic Thais. The great majority belong to one of the various hilltribes: mostly Karen, but also Lisu, Hmong and Lahu.

Mae Hong Son has always been caught between the competing powers of Burma and Siam/Thailand. For much of recent history the area has been under the (loose) control of various Burmese kingdoms. The influence of Burmese culture is also clearly reflected in the architecture of the town’s many monasteries.

Mae Hong Son also has a murky reputation for illegal logging; this area has some of the richest forests in the country. At the beginning of 1998, revelations surfaced about an alleged massive bribe to officials of the Royal Forestry Department, to overlook logging in the Salween conservation area.

Best time to visit

During the cool season (December to February), when the days are warm and clear and the nights are fresh, you’ll need a sweater as evening temperatures can get as low as 2°C.

Getting there and around

There are regular flights from Chiang Mai. You can easily walk from the airport to the town. The airport is to the north of town on Niveshpishan Road. It has an information counter and currency exchange booth, and songthaews are also available for hire. The bus station is at the northern end of town on Khunlum Praphat Road; there are plenty of connections with Chiang Mai, other destinations in this area of western Thailand and Bangkok’s Northern bus terminal. It’s a short walk to town and most guesthouses from the bus station. Mae Hong Son is small enough to walk around and tuk-tuk journeys around town cost ฿10-20. It is a friendly, accessible and amenable place.

Air

Daily connections on SGA and Nok Air with Chiang Mai (35 mins). Mar-Apr, flights may be cancelled or delayed because of smoke.

Bus

2 routes to Chiang Mai: the northern, more gruelling route via Pai, or the route to the south, via Mae Sariang. Buses leave through- out the day in both directions – in total there are 7 each way, most non-a/c. The first via Pai is at 0700 (to Pai, 3-3½ hrs, ฿48-100; to Chiang Mai, 8 hrs, ฿94-180). The first via Mae Sariang is at 0600 (to Mae Sariang, 4 hrs, ฿69-124 ; to Chiang Mai, 9½ hrs, ฿133-240 to Chiang Mai). Bangkok, 12½ hrs.

Car

Avis, airport, T053-620457. From ฿1400 a day.

Motorbike and jeep

Motorbikes from ฿150-180 per day (couple of places at the southern end of Khunlum Praphat Rd), jeeps ฿800-1000 per day.

Mountain bike

Mountain bikes are available for hire from 22 Singhanat Bamrun Rd, ฿100 per day.

Banks

6 in town, 4 with ATMs, all on Khunlum Praphat Rd: Bangkok Bank, Bank of Ayydhya, Kasikorn Bank and Thai Farmers. Thai Military Bank, at intersection with Panit Wattana Rd.

Immigration

Khunlum Praphat Rd (northern end of town.

Internet

Sunflower Café, Mae Hong Son Computer (80 Khunlum Praphat Rd), Reaun Pap Restaurant and in an office over the bridge near the immigration office (the cheapest place).

Medical services

Clinic, Khunlum Praphat Rd; Hospital, at the eastern end of Singhanat Bamrung Rd.

Police

Tourist Police: 1 Rachathampitak Rd, T053-611812 (claim 24 hrs service).

Post office

Southern end of town, corner of Khunlum Praphat Rd/ Soi 3, Mon-Fri 0830-1630, Sat-Sun 0900-1200.

Telephone

In new building behind Paa Dim Restaurant, Mon-Sat 0830-1630.