Hua Hin travel guide

Background

The first of the royal palaces, Saen Samran House, was built by Prince Naris, son of Rama V. In the early 1920s, King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) – no doubt influenced by his brother Chakrabongse – began work on a teakwood palace, ‘Deer Park’. The final stamp of royal approval came in the late 1920s, when King Phrajadipok (Rama VII) built another palace, which he named Klai Kangwon, literally ‘Far From Worries’. It was designed by one of Prince Naris’ sons. The name could not have been more inappropriate: the king was staying at Klai Kangwon in 1932 when he was dislodged from the throne by a coup d’état.

Early guidebooks, nostalgic for English seaside towns, named the resort Hua Hin-on-Sea. Hua (head) Hin (rock) refers to a stone outcrop at the end of the fine white-sand beach. The resort used to promote itself as the ‘Queen of Tranquillity’; until the 1980s, it was a forgotten backwater of an earlier, and less frenetic, tourist era. However, in the last few years the constant influx of tourists has livened up the atmosphere considerably; with massage parlours, tourist shops and numerous Western restaurants and bars lining the streets, it’s hard to get a moment’s peace. And just when you think the town is as chock-a-block as possible, the sound of drills and construction work reminds you otherwise. Condominiums are springing up all along the coast to cater for wealthy holidaymakers from Bangkok; high-rise buildings scar the horizon and vehicles clog the streets. New golf courses are being constructed to serve Thailand’s growing army of golfers – as well as avid Japanese players – and the olde-worlde charm that was once Hua Hin’s great selling point has been lost.

Getting around

Hua Hin is an increasingly compact beach resort and many of the hotels and restaurants are within walking distance of one another. There is also a good network of public transport: songthaews run along fixed routes, there are taxis and saamlors, and bicycles, motorbikes and cars are all available for hire. Saamlors can be hired for ฿฿­50 around town, ฿฿150 for a sightseeing tour. Songthaew rout to Khao Takiab, ฿฿15.

Air

SGA operates the Hua Hin Air Shuttle 3 times a day to Bangkok, 45 mins, ฿฿3100 one way, ฿฿5200 return. If you can afford it this is an great way to return to Bangkok. SGA only operate a 12-seat Cessna and this small aircraft flies low straight over the centre of Bangkok giving incredible views of the entire city.

Airline offices

SGA, T032-522300, http://www.sga.aero.

Bicycle

Can be hired for ฿฿100 per day, on Damnoenkasem and Phetkasem roads.

Bus

There are 3 bus stations. The a/c bus station to BKK is on Srasong Rd, next to the Chatchai market, T032-511654. Regular a/c connections with Bangkok‘s Southern bus terminal near the Thonburi train station, 3½ hrs, ฿฿128, every 40 mins from 0300-2100. A/c buses to the south leave from the main terminal and from opposite the Bangkok bus terminal on Srasong Rd, T08-1108 5319 (mob). Departures between 2100-2300. To Prachuap Khiri Khan, ฿฿40-50, Chumphon, ฿฿80-120, Surat Thani, ฿฿180-200. Local buses to Phetburi, ฿฿30, and Cha-am, ฿฿20, leave from Srasong Rd between streets 70 and 72 off Phetkasem Rd.

Car

It is presently a 3-hr drive to Bangkok, along a hazardous 2-lane highway (particularly bad over the first 80 km to Phetburi), jammed with siplors (10-wheel trucks).

Car hire

Jeeps can be hired for ฿฿1000- 1500 per day on Damnoenkasem and Phetkasem roads. Avis, www.avisthailand. com, has offices at the Hyatt, Sofitel Central and Hilton. Prices from ฿฿1350 per day. One-way rentals are possible.

Motorbike

Can be hired for ฿฿200 per day upwards, on Damnoenkasem and Phetkasem roads.

Taxis

Taxis run along prescribed routes for set fares. There’s a taxi stand on Phetkasem Rd, opposite Chatchai Hotel . Taxis can be hired for the day for ฿฿1500 plus petrol.

Baipoo Service, Baipoo shop, Dechanuchit Rd, T08-1307 2352 (mob), baipoo_shop4@ hotmail.com. A reliable taxi service which charges about ฿฿1000 per 100 km. Also rents motorbikes and cars.

Motorcycle taxis (identified by ‘taxi’ sign) will take you wherever you want to go. A taxi to Bangkok is 3 hrs (฿฿1600-1800).

Train

Regular connections with Bangkok‘s Hualamphong station, same train as to Phetburi (3½-4 hrs). Regular connections with Phetburi (1 hr).

Lomprayah, Soi Kanjanomai, T032-533 738, runs bus and boat transport to Koh Tao, ฿฿850, Phangan, ฿฿1200 and Samui, ฿฿1400, with its own bus and catamaran.

Banks

There are dozens of banks, ATMs and currency exchange booths all over town.

Internet

A number of small internet cafés have opened up around town. Also at CAT office฿฿.

Medical services

Medihouse Pharmacy, Naresdamri Rd, daily 0930-2300; San Paulo Hospital, Phetkasem Rd, opposite the Marriott, T032-532581.

Police

Damnoen- kasem Rd, T032-515995.

Post office

21 Damnoenkasem Rd.

Telephone

CAT, Damnoenkasem Rd, http://www.cattelecom.co.th. Next to the post office, 0830-2300.