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North coast
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North coast

About 5 km northwest of Thong Nai Pan, Ao Hat Kuat, more commonly known by its English translation ‘Bottle Beach’, is even more isolated, with a beautiful beach. Staff at the bungalows here are not as friendly as they could be. Despite developing a reputation as a bit of a British ghetto and a huge new development here, it retains its escapist appeal.

Along a rutted track, Ao Hat Khom is another relaxed place and many stay for weeks. The bay is fringed by a reef offering some of the best snorkelling on Phangan, however, because the seabed shelves gently, swimming is sometimes only really possible at high tide and getting out to the reef can be tricky.

Ao Chao Lok Lum is a deep, sheltered bay on Koh Phangan’s north coast. There is now an excellent road from Thong Sala to here and this fishing village is gradually developing into a quiet, comparatively refined resort, with the best part of the beach being to the east. In the village of Ban Chao Lok Lum there are bikes and diving equipment for rent. There’s also a 7-11 shop and an ATM.

Hat Salat is one of the most peaceful parts of the island, though due to its picturesque bay it is also one of the fastest-developing spots. Ao Mae Hat has a super beach with a sandy bank extending outwards and along which it is possible to walk to Koh Ma when it hasn’t rained for some time. There are palm trees, a few bungalows and good snorkelling.

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