Ayutthaya travel guide

Background

“In 712, a Year of the Tiger, second of the decade, on Friday, the sixth day of the waxing moon of the fifth month, at three nalika and nine bat after the break of dawn, the capital city of Ayutthaya was first established.” So recorded the Royal Chronicles of Ayutthaya. In translation this is widely accepted to mean Friday 4 March 1351, at about 0900. It is said that Prince Uthong (later King Ramathibodi I) and his court were forced here following an outbreak of cholera and, after a brief interlude at the nearby Wat Panancherng, founded the city.

Ayutthaya’s name derives from ‘Ayodhya’, the sacred town in the Indian epic, the Ramayana. It became one of the most prosperous kingdoms in the Southeast Asian region, and by 1378 the King of Sukhothai had been forced to swear his allegiance. Ultimately, the kingdom stretched from Angkor (Cambodia) in the east, to Pegu (Burma) in the west. In 1500 it was reported that the kingdom was exporting 30 junk loads (10,000 tonnes) of rice to Malacca (Malaysia), each year while also being an important source of animal skins and ivory.

The city is situated on an island at the confluence of three rivers: the Chao Phraya, Pasak and Lopburi. Ayutthaya’s strong defensive position proved to be valuable as it was attacked by the Burmese on no less than 24 occasions. Recent research on changes in sea level indicates that in 1351 the coastline was much further north and so the city was considerably closer to the sea. Ayutthaya, therefore, would have been able to develop as a trading port unlike the previous Thai capitals of Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai.

One of Ayutthaya’s most famous kings was Boromtrailokant (1448-1488), a model of the benevolent monarch. He is best known for his love of justice and his administrative and legislative reforms. This may seem surprising in view of some of the less than enlightened legal practices employed later in the Ayutthaya period. A plaintiff and defendant might.

A succession struggle in the mid-16th century led to 20 years of warfare with the Burmese, who managed to seize and occupy Ayutthaya. It wasn’t long before the hero- king, Naresuan (1590-1605), recaptured the city and led his country back to independence. Under King Narai (1656-1688), Ayutthaya became a rich, cosmopolitan trading post. Merchants came to the city from Portugal, Spain, Holland, China, Arabia, Persia, Malaya, India and Japan. In the 16th century Ayutthaya was said to have 40 different nationalities living in and around the city walls, and supported a population larger than London’s.

The city was strongly fortified, with ramparts 20 m high and 5 m thick, and was protected on all sides by waterways: rivers on three sides and a linking canal on the fourth creating an oriental Venice. The cosmopolitan atmosphere was evident on the waterways where royal barges rubbed shoulders with Chinese junks, Arab dhows and ocean-going schooners. Visitors found endless sources of amusement in the city. There were elephant jousts, tiger fights, Muay Thai (Thai boxing), masked plays and puppet theatre.

It was said that the King of Ayutthaya was so wealthy that the elephants were fed from gold vessels. Indeed, early Western visitors to Ayutthaya often commented on the king’s elephants and the treatment they received. One of the earliest accounts is by Jacques de Countres, a merchant from Bruges who resided in the city for eight months in 1596 (during Naresuan’s reign). His son later recorded his father’s experiences: “The palace is surrounded by stables where live the favourite elephants ridden by the king. Each one had its silk cushion, and they slept on it as if they were small dogs. Each one of them had six very large bowls of gold. Some contained oil to grease their skins; others were filled with water for sprinkling; others served for eating; others for drinking; others for urinating and defecating. The elephants were indeed so well trained that they got up from their beds when they felt the urge to urinate or defecate. Their attendants under- stood at once and handed them the bowls. And they kept their lodges always very sweet-smelling and fumigated with benzoin and other fragrant substances. I would not have believed it if I had not actually seen it.” (Smithies, Michael Descriptions of Old Siam, Kuala Lumpur, 1995, OUP.)

One European became particularly influential: King Narai’s Greek foreign affairs officer (and later prime minister), Constantine Phaulcon . It was at this time the word ‘farang’ – to describe any white foreigner – entered the Thai vocabulary, derived from ‘ferenghi’, the Indian for ‘French’. In 1688, Narai was taken ill and at the same time the French, who Phaulcon had been encouraging, became a serious threat, gaining control of a fortress in Bangkok. An anti-French lobby arrested the by now very unpopular Phaulcon and had him executed for suspected designs on the throne. The French troops were expelled and for the next century Europeans were kept at arm’s length. It was not until the 19th century that they regained influence in the Thai court.

In 1767 the kingdom was again invaded, by the Burmese, who, at the 24th attempt, were finally successful in vanquishing the defenders. The city was sacked and its defences destroyed, but, unable to consolidate their position, the Burmese left for home, taking with them large numbers of prisoners and leaving the city in ruins. The population was reduced from one million to 10,000. Ayutthaya never recovered from this final attack, and the magnificent temples were left to deteriorate.

Getting around

The wats are spread over a considerable area, too large to walk around comfortably, so the best way to cover quite a bit of ground is to hire a saamlor by the hour. That way, you can decide your route and instruct accordingly. Long-tailed boats are available to transport people around the perimeter of the town, in order to visit the outlying sites. Many of the guesthouses hire out bicycles. A tuk-tuk around town costs ฿50-60. Songthaews charge a flat fare of ฿7 for trips around town and can be chartered for about ฿300 per day.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Most people get here by bus from Bangkok’s Northern bus terminal. It is an easy 1½-hour journey, making a day trip from Bangkok possible. The bus station in Ayutthaya is centrally located on Naresuan Road. Another option is to arrive by ferry, which takes a leisurely three hours from Tha Tien pier in Bangkok . You can also take the train from Bangkok’s Hualomphong station – it takes about 1½ hours. Local trains leave regularly and charge a fraction of the cost of the express services, yet don’t take much longer. The train station in Ayutthaya is just off Rojana Rd, across the Pasak River. A songthaew to the old city costs around A7. Alternatively, take the small track facing the station down to the river; from the jetty here ferries cross over to the other side every five minutes or so (฿2), just off Uthong Road. Most of the guesthouses are a short walk from here.

Banks

Most of the banks are either on Uthong Rd or Naresuan Rd (Chao Phrom Rd) and change TCs and have ATMs. Bangkok, Uthong Rd (next to Cathay Hotel). Siam City, Uthong Rd (close to Uthong Hotel). Thai Military, Chao Phrom Rd. Thai Farmers, Chao Phrom Rd.

Internet

Log On, Makham Rang Rd, offers excellent bandwidth on new machines for ฿15 per hr – it’s the best place in town by a mile though a little walk from the main backpacker area. A number of internet cafés have opened up on Naresuan Rd and Soi Thor Kor Sor.

Post office

Uthong Rd (south from the Chandra Kasem Palace). International calls available here.

Tourist Police

, across the street from the TAT office, Si Sanphet Rd, T035-242352.