Koh Lanta travel guide

Background

Koh Lanta is packed with bungalows and resorts. Some of these set-ups are replete with internet, minimarts, souvenir shops, spas, restaurants, pools and bars so that guests need never leave. Meanwhile, on the main road, there is almost a total absence of cultural outposts like libraries, bookshops or music stores. Instead, the road is dominated by restaurants in shacks, garages, the occasional massage and tattoo parlour and general grocery shops along with farang- tailored bars that promise the latest football results and pub dinners. Still, in the evening when the fairylights are switched on and the dust clouds expand with Saharan girth, it is bearable – briefly.

There is a sizeable sea gypsy village to the southeast of the island, where the inhabitants continue with a lifestyle they have maintained for generations. The village comprises shacks – some awash with the flotsam and jetsam of a fishing life – from broken equipment to torn nets mixed in with today’s ecologically nightmarish household rubbish. From the lack of any businesses set up to lure in tourists – even the most basic cafés – it is clear they have no wish to become yet another ‘tourist attraction’. Walking through the chaotic layout of their living space, it is impossible not to intrude and, while the Chao Le are remarkably patient and gracious, it is perhaps better to resist curiosity about the ‘indigenous lifestyle’ unless invited. Yet local tour operators on the island and further afield are now including this village in their itineraries. If you have a concern about infringing on the rights of these communities, you should check with tour operators about the extent to which their wishes are respected, and the extent to which they receive benefits from the visits.

Getting around

Not one bay area accessible from the road has not been developed. To get to the resorts and bungalows, there is a road which stretches the length of the island from Sala Dan Pier to the national park end. It is now fully sealed making exploration of the Island easy. However the roads leading to resort land are seriously potholed, steep and after periods of dry weather covered with plumes of chronic red dust. Further down this road, as it approaches the national park and the sealed tarmac ends, accidents are common, it therefore makes sense to wear long trousers and sturdy footwear,

Songthaews are the main form of public transport around the island, though they are few and far between. Motorbikes and mountain bikes are available for hire from guest- houses, some shops and tour companies. Although the rental situation has improved greatly with most places renting out nearly new motorbikes, it is advisable to check the tyres, the brakes and the tank before you set off as most of the rental places expect you to sign a contract before you set off agreeing to pay for any damages incurred. A more reliable solution is to rent a jeep but these are considerably more expensive unless you find other people to share the costs. Long-tailed boats can be chartered for coastal trips. There are also a smattering of tuk-tuks in Sala Dan but prices are high – even for the shortest 2-km hop.

Ins and outs

Getting there

The main access point to Koh Lanta is from Klong Chi Lard Pier, around 5 km out of Krabi Town to Sala Dan, via Koh Jum (two hours). The island largely shuts its tourist industry down during the wet season when unpredictable large waves make it too dangerous to cross (May to October). A minibus then takes visitors via two short car ferry crossings from Lanta Noi to Sala Dan (two hours). There are boat connections with Ban Hua Hin at the southern end of Koh Klang, and songthaews from Krabi to Ban Hua Hin. Minibuses also run from Trang and, during the high-season (November to March), boats run to and from Phi Phi.

Koh Lanta

Bicycles

The laterite roads are rough. Mountain bikes can be hired from bungalows for ฿฿150 per day, motorbikes for ฿฿250 per day. Alternatively, go to Sala Dan.

Boat

Boats leave from Sala Dan on the northern tip of the island and from Lanta Pier on the southeast coast. To Phi Phi, there are 2 departures a day, 0800 and 1300, ฿฿350. Includes transfer from resort to the pier. To Phuket boats leave daily, 0800 and 1300, ฿฿750, and connect with a minivan, ฿฿196. To Krabi, there’s 1 ferry daily at 0800, 2 hrs, ฿฿350. There is no ferry to Krabi from Lanta (and vice versa) in the wet season. During the high season there are daily boats between Lanta and Phi Phi.

Hire long-tailed boats from bungalows for ฿฿1200 per person, based on 4 people per trip, per day. This price includes all snorkelling gear and food

Minivan

Minivans to Trang leave on the hour 0700-1500, ฿฿250; To Krabi, every hour from 0600-1500, ฿฿200, or ฿฿300 to the airport.

Pick-up trucks

Some ply the island, but can be horrendously expensive, others serve individual bungalows.

Banks

Siam City Bank Exchange , Sala Dan. ATMs are now common place.

Medical services

Health centre, Sala Dan. Hospital, Lanta Pier.

Police

Sala Dan.

Post office

Lanta Pier.