Tetouan travel guide

Background

Tetouan was founded in the third century BC as Tamuda, but was destroyed by the Romans in AD 42. The Merinid ruler Sultan Abou Thabit built a kasbah at Tetouan in 1307. Sacked by Henry III of Castille in 1399 to disperse the corsairs based there, Tetouan was neglected until it was taken over by Muslims expelled from Granada in 1484. They were to bring with them the distinctive forms and traditions of Andalucían Islamic architecture, still observable in the médinas of Granada and Cordoba. Many of the Andalucíans worked as corsairs, continuing the tradition. A Jewish community was established here in the 17th century which gave the impetus to open up trade with Europe. Trade with the West continued to boom in the 18th century during the reign of Moulay Ismaïl. In 1913 Tetouan was chosen as the capital of the Spanish Protectorate over northern Morocco. The Spanish created the new town, which has remained an important regional centre in independent Morocco.

Getting around

Taxis from Tangier and Tetouan arrive in the new town, close to the bus station, about 10 minutes’ walk from the médina. (From the bus station, to get to the médina, head up Rue Sidi Mandri and turn third right down Avenue Mohammed V, which will bring you to Place Hassan II.) In summer, if you want to go to Martil or Cabo Negro, buses go from Avenue Massira, near the old train station, instead of from the main bus station. To get there, take Avenue Hassan II, to the right of the main bus station, which meets Avenue Massira after the Ensemble Artisanal on the right.

Note When visiting Tetouan watch out for the various seedy characters and con artists with a keen eye for tired backpackers stumbling off a late bus from Fès. If you are arriving by bus, you are at your most vulnerable at the main bus station. Pay attention to your belongings and avoid having any dealings with faux guides. The tourist office (below) can arrange for an official guide, should you want one, for 120dh for a half day.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Tetouan is easily visited as a day trip from Tangier, if you don’t want to stop over. There are buses in from Chefchaouen, Fès, Meknès, Ouezzane and of course Tangier, operated by both the CTM and private companies. There is also a bus from Casablanca (seven hours). Chefchaouen to Tetouan takes around one hour, Tangier to Tetouan 1½ hours. There is also a daily bus from Al Hoceïma (five hours). Coming from Ceuta, it’s best to get a grand taxi from the frontier.

Tetouan is about 70 minutes from Tangier through beautiful hilly country. Note that there are police checkpoints at all major junctions, so keep your speed down. Watch out too for hair-brained overtaking on the seemingly fast, winding sections of the road. On the last stretch into Tetouan, the road becomes triple lane as it goes up and over a high ridge. The middle lane is for overtaking, for Tetouan-bound traffic on the northwest side, for Tangier-bound traffic on the southeast side. You run into Tetouan through its sprawling suburbs, past a turn-off right onto the main route for Chefchaouen and Fès.

Tetouan

Bus

The bus station, at the corner of Av Hassan I and Rue Sidi Mandri, T039-966263, has both CTM and private line services to most major destinations. Services to Fnideq (for Ceuta, 30 mins), Chefchaouen (1 hr), Tangier (1 hr), Meknès (8 hrs) and Fès (6 hrs). Supratours also operates a coach service to link up with the rail network at Tnine Sidi Lyamani. Through tickets can be bought from the office on Av 10 Mai (T039-967579), where 2 coaches depart each day. Buses to Martil, Cabo Negro and Mdiq leave from near the old railway station on Av Massira, those for Oued Laou from the main bus station.

Car hire

Amin Car, Av Mohammed V, T039-964407. Zeite, Yacoub el Mansour.

Taxi

Grands taxis to Tangier, Fnideq (15dh, for Ceuta), Chefchaouen (30dh), the beaches and other places, leave from Blvd Maarakah Annoual or nearby.

Banks

Banque Marocaine, Pl Moulay el Mehdi. BMCE, 11 Av Mohammed Ibn Aboud (Mon-Fri 0800-2000, Sat-Sun 0900-1300, 1500-2000). BMCI, 18 Rue Sidi el Mandri, T039-963090.

Post

Pl Moulay el Mehdi, T039-966798.

Medical services

Chemist: 24-hr, Rue al Wahda, T039-966777.

Useful addresses

Police: Blvd General Franco, T19.