South of Morocco’s economic powerhouse, the coast takes on a comparatively neglected air, with old towns built by European powers slowly crumbling away. El Jadida’s old Portuguese centre is a spectacular film set of a place and Azemmour also has its ancient ramparts. In places, notably Oualidia, blessed with an extraordinary natural lagoon, holiday development is starting to take hold, but for the most part tourists are a rare sight. Low hills slope down to the coast and tomato growers line each side of the road with crops and trailers piled high with produce.
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