Nestling in a verdant bowl formed by the surrounding massif, Debdou, 50 km southwest of Taourirt, is an island of rural tranquillity. The fact that it’s on a road to nowhere has helped to preserve its identity. The surrounding area is very scenic and provides good opportunities for walking and exploration. There is an interesting kasbah halfway up the mountainside above the main village. There are no tourist facilities, and transport links are poor.
Until the 1960s over half the population of Debdou were Jewish, and most were the descendants of Jews from Taza who fled persecution and chaos of Bou Hamra’s rule (1902-08). The ‘main street’ branches off the main road at the entrance to the village and zig-zags for about 1 km, past store houses to a square at the top end of the village known as Aïn Sbilia. Overlooking the square is a balcony shaded by plane trees. A small sluice gate allows water to flow into a channel bisecting the square below which has a café. It is all very restful, the locals playing cards or backgammon and drinking mint tea.
High above the village is the still-inhabited kasbah of Caïd Ghomriche built by the Merinids in the 13th century and subsequently handed over to the Beni Ouattas, a related tribe, around 1350 when the Merinids ruled Morocco. Follow the signposted track (2 km) starting from the bottom end of the village. Note the colourful hammam which is still heated by a wood stove. Along the way there are pretty views of the town on the right and the waterfalls high above on the left. Just before the kasbah there is a grassy ledge with good views over the valley, and the entrance to a cave. The settlement is a mixture of ancient ruins, small vegetable gardens and mud houses.
At the back of the village, past the walls, and a dry moat, is a field where jagged stones stick out of the ground – the sunken headstones of tombs. Take care not to trip over them. By crossing the field and turning left for 30-40 m and then sharp right, there is a path (1 km) linking up with the main road and the source of the Oued Debdou. The same location can be reached by the main road which swings to the left just before Debdou, and runs along the mountain crest, or Gaada de Debdou, for 5 or 6 km. There are fantastic views from here and good walking opportunities. Beyond this the road descends from the plateau down into the arid Rekkam plain where it becomes a rough track, eventually leading to Outad Ouled el Hadj. Market day is Wednesday....
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