Taza travel guide

Background

The site was first settled in Neolithic times. Later it was developed by Meknassa Amazigh groups, eventually becoming an important but finally unsuccessful fortification against the advance of the Fatimids from the east. The Almohads under Sultan Abd el Moumen captured the city in 1141-1142, making it their second capital, and using it to attack the Almoravids. The Almohads built a mosque and expanded the fortifications.

Taza was the first city taken by the Merinids, who extended the Almohad city considerably. Its important defensive role continued under the Merinids and the Saâdians, and was again pivotal in the rise to power of the Alaouites, who further extended and fortified the city, later using it as a strong point in their defence against the threat from French-occupied Algeria to the east.

The eccentric pretender, Bou Hamra, ‘the man on the she-donkey’, proclaimed himself as sultan here in 1902 and controlled much of eastern Morocco until 1912, when he was caught and killed. He was known as a wandering miracle-maker, travelling Morocco on his faithful beast. Taza was occupied by the French in 1914, and became an important military centre, located on the route linking Algeria with the Atlantic plains of le Maroc utile, between remote mountains and plateaux of eastern Morocco and the great cities to the west. Today, with the decline in cross-border trade with Algeria, Taza, like its distant neighbour Oujda, sees far less passing traffic than it did and has a distinctly sleepy feel to it. A couple of the hotels have been upgraded, however, and you could well stay here for a couple of nights if exploring or birdwatching up in the Jbel Tazzeka National Park.

Getting around

Arriving by train, bus or grand taxi, you will come into the north of the ville nouvelle. The médina is a fair 3-km trek away, and as there is only one hotel there you will probably stay in the ville nouvelle. (Go straight down Avenue de la Gare, there are three hotels on Place de l’Indépendence at the end.) There is a regular bus service from Place de l’Indépendence to Place Moulay Hassan in the médina. A light blue petit taxi will cost you around 3dh from station to Place de l’Indépendence, and 6dh from station to médina.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Taza is easily accessible by public transport from Fès, 120 km to the west. Coming from eastern Morocco, you will necessarily pass through Taourirt and Guercif, a major meeting of the roads some 40 km from Taza. There are trains daily from Oujda, taking around four hours, and from Meknès, around 3½ hours and Fès, two hours. There are occasional grands taxis from Al Hoceïma and from both Al Hoceïma and Nador there are buses to Taza, via Aknoul, taking around four hours.

Taza

Bus

CTM buses leave from their office on Pl de l’Indépendence for Oujda and Fès/Meknès/Casablanca. Other companies operate from near the railway station, turn right at the end of Av de la Gare. Regular services to Oujda/Guercif/Taourirt (4 hrs), Fès every hour (2 hrs), Nador (4 hrs), Al Hoceïma (4 hrs) and Aknoul (1 hr). Make sure you take a new-looking bus by a reliable company for Al Hoceïma and Nador.

Taxi

Grands taxis leave from the transport cafés by the bus station to Oujda, Fès, Al Hoceïma and Nador, amongst other places.

Train

At Taza the ONCF locomotives switch from electric to diesel, hence speed heading eastwards is slow. There are at least 3 daily departures for Oujda (stopping at Guercif and Taourirt). Casablanca is 7 hrs away, Tangier a good 8 hrs away, if you are lucky with the connection at Sidi Kacem. Fès is 2 hrs by train, Meknès 3 hrs.

Banks

Banks with ATMs include the BMCE, near the Hotel du Dauphiné, in the new town.