Agra travel guide

History

With minor interruptions Agra alternated with Delhi as the capital of the Mughal Empire. Sikander Lodi seized it from a rebellious governor and made it his capital in 1501. He died in Agra but is buried in Delhi . Agra was Babur’s capital. He is believed to have laid out a pleasure garden on the east bank of the River Yamuna and his son Humayun built a mosque here in 1530. Akbar lived in Agra in the early years of his reign. Ralph Fitch, the English Elizabethan traveller, described a “magnificent city, with broad streets and tall buildings”. He also saw Akbar’s new capital at Fatehpur Sikri, 40 km west, describing a route lined all the way with stalls and markets. Akbar moved his capital again to Lahore, before returning to Agra in 1599, where he spent the last six years of his life. Jahangir left Agra for Kashmir in 1618 and never returned. Despite modifying the Red Fort and building the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan also moved away in 1638 to his new city Shah Jahanabad in Delhi, though he returned in 1650, taken prisoner by his son Aurangzeb and left to spend his last days in the Red Fort. It was Aurangzeb, the last of the Great Mughals, who moved the seat of government permanently to Delhi. In the 18th century Agra suffered at the hands of the Jats, was taken, lost and retaken by the Marathas who, in turn, were ousted by the British in 1803. It was the centre of much fighting in the ‘Uprising’ and was the administrative centre of the Northwest Provinces and Oudh until that too was transferred to Allahabad in 1877.

Climate

The best time to visit is between November and March.

Getting around

Buses run a regular service between the station, bus stands and the main sites. Cycle-rickshaws, autos and taxis can be hired to venture further afield, or hire bike if it’s not too hot.

Air

Kheria airport is 7 km from city centre. At the time of writing all flights are suspended. Several airlines have offices in Clarks Shiraz Hotel, including Indian, T0562-222 6801, and Jet Airways, T0562-222 6529.

Bus

Local

City Bus Service covers most areas and main sights. Plenty leave from the Taj Mahal area and the Fort Bus Stand.

Long distance

Most long-distance services leave from the Idgah Bus Stand, T0562-242 0324, including to: Delhi (4-5 hrs) via Mathura (1 hr); Fatehpur Sikri (40 km, 1 hr); Bharatpur (2 hrs); Khajuraho (10 hrs). Agra Fort Stand, T0526-236 4557, has additional buses to Delhi, Lucknow (10 hrs) and Haridwar (minimum 12 hrs). Deluxe buses for Jaipur arrive and depart from a stop near Hotel Sakura: closer to most hotels and where there is less hassle from touts. Delhi from tourist office, 0700, 1445, deluxe, 4 hrs.

Motorbike/bicycle hire

Firoz Motorcycle House, Cariappa Rd, Enfield Bullets Rs 500 per day. Bike hire from Sadar Bazar, near police station and near Tourist Rest House, Rs 30-40 per day.

Rickshaw

Auto rickshaw

Prepaid stand at Agra Cantt Station has prices clearly listed for point-to-point rates and sightseeing. Expect to pay Rs 60-70 to Fatehabad Rd or Taj Ganj, or Rs 300 for a full day.

Cycle rickshaw

Negotiate (pay more to avoid visiting shops); Taj Ganj to Fort Rs 20; Rs 80-120 for visiting sights; Rs 150 for 10 hrs.

Taxi/car hire

Tourist taxis from travel agents, remarkably good value for visiting nearby sights. Non-a/c car Rs 5 per km, full day Rs 800 (100 km), half day Rs 400 (45 km); a/c rates double; to Fatehpur Sikri Rs 1200 return). Travel Bureau, T0562-233 0230; UP Tours, T0562-233 0140.

Train

From Delhi train is the quickest and most reliable way. Most trains use Agra Cantonment Railway Station, 5 km west of Taj Mahal, enquiries T131, reservations T0562-242 1039, open 0800-2000. Foreigners’ queue at Window 1. Pre-paid taxi/auto- rickshaw kiosk outside the station. Some trains to Rajasthan from quieter Agra Fort Station, T132, T0562-236 9590. Trains mentioned arrive and depart from Agra Cantt unless specified. To Delhi: Shatabdi Exp 2001, (ND), 2040, 2½ hrs; Taj Exp 2279, (HN), 1855, 3¼ hrs (CC/II); Intercity Exp 1103, (HN), 0600, 3½ hrs (2nd class only). To Jaipur: Intercity Exp 2307, 1645, 6 hrs (from Agra Fort); Marudhar Exp 4853/63, 0715, 6¾ hrs. Jhansi (via Gwalior): Taj Express 2280, 1015, 3 hrs, (Gwalior 1¾ hrs), Mumbai (CST): Punjab Mail 2138, 0855, 23¼ hrs. Sawai Madhopur (for Ranthambore) at 0600, 0900, 1800.

Banks

Several ATMs on Fatehabad Rd (Cirrus, Maestro, Visa cards etc). Andhra Bank, Taj Rd, opposite Kwality’s gives cash against card. Thomas Cook, Crystal Tower, Fatehabad Rd, TCs and cash against card.

Internet

The Mall (24 hrs). Many in Taj Ganj and around hotel areas, Rs 40-50/hr. Khurana Cyber Café, 805 Sadar Bazar, opposite Cantt Hospital.

Medical services

Ambulance: T102. District Hospital, Chhipitola Rd/ Mahatma Gandhi Rd, T0562-236 2043. Dr VN, Kaushal, opposite Imperial Cinema, T0562-236 3550. Recommended.

Post

GPO opposite India Tourist Office, with Poste Restante.

Useful contacts

Fire: T101. Police: T100.