Varanasi travel guide

History

Varanasi derives its name from two streams, the Varuna to the north and the Assi, a small trickle, on the south. Banaras is a corruption of Varanasi but it is also called Kashi (’City of Light’) by Hindus. As one of the seven sacred cities of Hinduism. The Jains too consider it holy because three tirthankars (seventh Suarsvanath, 11th Shyeyanshnath, 23rd Parsvanath) were born here.

Varanasi is said to combine the virtues of all other places of pilgrimage, and anyone dying within the area marked by the Panch Kosi Road is transported straight to heaven. Some devout Hindus move to Varanasi to end their days and have their ashes scattered in the holy Ganga. Every pilgrim, in addition to visiting the holy sites, must make a circuit of the Panch Kosi Road which runs outside and round the sacred territory of Varanasi. This starts at Manikarnika Ghat, runs along the waterfront to Assi Ghat, then round the outskirts in a large semi-circle to Barna Ghat. The 58-km route is lined with trees and shrines and the pilgrimage is supposed to take six days, each day’s walk finishing in a small village, equipped with temples and dharamshalas.

Varanasi was probably an important town by the seventh century BC when Babylon and Nineveh were at the peak of their power. The Buddha visited it in 500 BC and it was mentioned in both the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. It became a centre of culture, education, commerce and craftsmanship but was raided by Mahmud of Ghazni’s army in 1033 and by Qutb-ud-din Ghuri in 1194. Ala-ud-din Khalji, the King of Delhi (1294-1316), destroyed temples and built mosques on their sites. The Muslim influence was strong so even in the 18th century the city was known briefly as Mohammadabad. Despite its early foundation hardly any building dates before the 17th century, and few are more than 200 years old.

The city stands as the chief centre of Sanskrit learning in North India. Sanskrit, the oldest of the Indo-European languages, used for Hindu ritual has been sustained here long after it ceased to be a living language elsewhere. The Banaras Hindu University has over 150,000 rare manuscripts. Hindu devotional movements flourished here, especially in the 15th century under Ramananda, and Kabir, one of India’s greatest poets, lived in the city. It was here that Tulsi Das translated the Ramayana from Sanskrit into Hindi.

Getting around

The only way to really see the heart of the Old City is on foot, though no visit is complete without an early-morning boat trip along the ghats. Varanasi is quite spread out: the university to the south is nearly 7 km from the spacious Cantonment area and the Junction Station to the north. Around town, cycle-rickshaws are common, while autos are usually shared. Buses are hopelessly crowded so you might consider hiring a bike. Unmetered taxis are best for longer sightseeing trips. The city has some of the disadvantages of pilgrimage centres, notably rickshaw drivers who seem determined to extort as much as possible from unsuspecting visitors. Arrival at the station and finding your hotel of choice can be stressful, don’t believe touts who tell you it is closed or full – such things rarely change in Varanasi.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Several airlines link Varanasi with Delhi, Khajuraho, Kathmandu, Mumbai and other cities. From Babatpur airport, 22 km away, there is an unreliable airport bus to the Indian Airlines office in the Cantonment area. Better to take a taxi from the prepaid booth. Most long-distance buses arrive at the bus stand near the crossroads 500 m northeast of the Junction Station. Most trains stop at the Junction Station near the Cantonment, about 6 km northwest of the Old City and the budget hotels. Some trains (eg Delhi–Kolkata Rajdhani and Expresses to New Jalpaiguri and Guwahati) do not pass through Varanasi itself but stop at Mughal Sarai, 27 km away, which is easily accessible by rail or road from Varanasi. Shared jeeps cost Rs 20 between the two stations, or a taxi is Rs 200.

Varanasi

Air

Transfer from the airport by taxi, a/c Rs 300, non-a/c Rs 200. Some taxis offer free transfer and claim a commission from hotel on arrival. A minibus to the airport runs from Assi Ghat for Rs 175 per person, contact Tiwari Tours. Complimentary bus for Indian Airlines’ passengers leaves from office at 52 Yadunath Marg, Cantonment, at 0900, returns from airport at 1700, T0542-250 2529; airport T0542-262 2494.

Indian Airlines flies daily to Delhi and Mumbai; to Khajuraho Wed, Fri, Sun; Kathmandu, Mon, Tue, Thu, Sat. Jet Airways, S20/56D Kennedy Rd, The Mall, T0542-250 6444; airport T0542-262 2544, http://www.jetairways.com, flies to Delhi and Khajuraho daily. Kingfisher, T1800- 1800 101, and Spicejet, T1800-180 3333, both fly to Delhi and Mumbai. Thai Airways have 3 flights per week to Bangkok, Oct-Mar only.

Bicycle

Cycle and motorcycle hire: near Hotel Hindustan International, Maldahiya.

Boat

This is the best way to enjoy Varanasi. It is necessary to bargain especially for an early- morning ghats visit; shared boat, Rs 40 per person per hr is the official rate for a boat carrying up to 10 people, but bargaining is possible. Ask around for others to share boat; river crossing about Rs 30 return. A boat ride at dusk is also recommended.

Bus

UP Roadways Bus Stand, Sher Shah Suri Marg, is oppposite Junction Station, open 24 hrs, T0542-220 3476. Private buses stop opposite the railway station. Buses to Sarnath, 9 km, Rs 5 . Frequent services to Allahabad, 0330-2300, 122 km, 3 hrs, better than train, many private operators run deluxe buses; Gorakhpur, hourly, 7 hrs, Rs 121; Jaunpur, 1 hr, Rs 30. For Delhi go via Kanpur, depart in evening until 2300, 8 hrs, Rs 172; Lucknow, hourly, 286 km, 8 hrs, Rs 160. Khajuraho: 1 direct per day, 0430, 565 km, 12 hrs, Rs 248. Agra, 1 per day, 1700, 14 hrs, Rs 318. Gaya: better by rail.

Rickshaw

Tempos and auto-rickshaws usually run on fixed routes; those near hotel gates overcharge (fix the fare before hiring). They are not allowed in the narrow streets of the old city but will go to Godoulia in the centre near Dasasvamedha Ghat, Rs 40-60 from station, or Rs 50-60 to Assi Ghat. There is a prepaid taxi and rickshaw booth near the station reservations office.

Taxi

Private taxis from agents and hotels. Full day (80 km; 8 hrs), a/c Rs 900-1200, non a/c Rs 700.

Train

The large ‘Tourist Information Counter’ at Junction station is run by travel agents and adds large commissions to rail tickets. The official Reservations office is outside the station on the left as you exit. Be extra careful with your possessions on trains bound for Varanasi as theft is common.

Most trains stop at the Junction (or Cantonment) Station, T0542-234 8031 or 131, with 24-hr left luggage; to reach a Cantonment hotel on foot, use the back exit. Can be very crowded; use a retiring room if you have a long wait. Mughal Sarai station, T0542-225 5703, has the Delhi/Kolkata Rajdhani Exp (though some go via Patna). Get your tickets (preferably a day in advance) from the Foreign Tourist Assistance inside the main hall which is very helpful and efficient, passport required (0800-2200, Sun 0800-1400). When it is closed use the computerized railway reservations (0800-1400, 1430-2000). Agra Fort: Marudhar Exp 4853/4863, 1720/1830, 12½ /11¼ hrs (book ahead); or go to Tundla from Mughal Sarai Station . Allahabad: Mahanagari Exp 1094, 1130, 3½ hrs; Sarnath Exp 4260, 1230, 2¾ hrs; Kamayani Exp 1072, 1550, 3¾ hrs. Chennai: Ganga-Kaveri Exp 2670, 2025, Mon, Wed, 48 hrs, reserve early. Dehra Dun: Doon Exp 3009, 1040, 24 hrs, book in advance (no tourist quota); Janta Exp 4265, 0830, 24 hrs; Varanasi Dehra Dun Exp 4265, 0830, 24¼ hrs, no a/c class. Gaya: Dehra Dun Exp 3010, 1615, 5¼ hrs; Chauri Chaura Exp 5004, 0025, 6 hrs. Gorakhpur (for Nepal): Krishak Exp 5002, 1630, 5½ hrs; Manduadih Gorakhpur Exp 5104A, 0550, 5¼ hrs; Jaunpur: Sutlej Doon Exp 3307, 0640 1¼ hr; Farakka Exp 3483, 1230, 50 mins. Kanpur: Neelachal Exp 8475, 0742, Mon, Wed, Sat, 7¼ hrs; Kolkata (H): Amritsar- Howrah Mail 3006, 1650, 14¾ hrs; Doon Exp 3010, 1615, 14¾ hrs. Lucknow: Varuna Exp 4227, 0455, 5 hrs; Kashi-Visvanath Exp 4257, 1345, 6½ hrs. Mahoba (for Khajuraho): Bundelkhand Exp 1108, 1330, 12¼ hrs (onward bus, 0600). Satna (for Khajuraho): Satna Mahanagari Exp 1094, 1145, 6½ hrs (from Satna, bumpy bus next day, 5 hrs). Mumbai (CST): Varanasi Lokmanya Tilak Exp 1066, 2025, Tue, Thu, Sun, 25¾ hrs. New Delhi: Lichchavi Exp 5205, 1500, 13½ hrs; Shramjeevi Exp 2401, 1520, 14¼ hrs.

Mughal Sarai Station (with retiring rooms and left luggage). Take a connecting train from Varanasi (45 mins), or allow plenty of time as you need to cross the Ganga and there are huge jams. Best to take a taxi from Varanasi as buses are not dependable and a rickshaw would feel very vulnerable next to the speeding juggernauts. Mughal Sarai has several trains to Gaya; a good one is Purushottam Exp 2802, 1030, 3 hrs. Also to: Kolkata (H): Rajdhani Exp 2302/2422, 0235, 8-10 hrs; Kalka Howrah Mail 2312, 2030, 10½ hrs. New Delhi: Poorva Exp 2381/2303, 1910/2045, Wed, Thu, Sun, 13/11½ hrs; Neelanchal Exp 8475, 0655, Mon, Wed, Sat, 14½ hrs; Rajdhani Exp 2301/5, 0050, 9¼ hrs. New Jalpaiguri (for Darjeeling): Mahananda Exp 4084, 2120, 18½ hrs; NE Exp 2506, 1835, 16 hrs and to Guwahati, 24¼ hrs.

Transport to Nepal

Payment for Nepalese visa at border in cash only. Try to carry exactly US$30 (other currencies not accepted), as money changers at the border give terrible exchange rates. It is illegal to carry Rs 500 and Rs 1000 notes into Nepal.

To Kathmandu, the journey requires an overnight stay near the border plus about 20 hrs on the road so can be tiring. UP Roadways buses go via Gorakhpur to Sonauli, depart 4 or 5 times per day, check at bus stand for timings, 9-10 hrs, Rs 130; from Sonauli, 0600. Private buses (agents near UP Tourist Bungalow, around Bengali Tola/Assi Ghat and opposite railway station), often demand inclusive fares for hotel stay; you may prefer to opt for their deluxe buses to the border. Well organized bus service by Paul Travels, T0542-220 8137, near Tourist Bungalow, Rs 600; departs 0830, reaches Sonauli 1830, overnight in “horrific” dorms on Nepali side, next morning depart 0830 for Kathmandu (10-11 hrs). Also possible to buy tickets direct to Chitwan National Park and Pokhara (both Rs 600).

Banks

Most banks refuse to change money. Travellers are often stopped and asked for ‘change’. State Bank of India at Hotel Kashika (Mon-Fri 1000-1400) T0542-234 3742, and Godoulia (near Indica Books), takes approximately 1 hr, changes Visa, TCs. Also at Clarks Varanasi and at airport. Radiant Services, D48/139A Misir Pokhra (by Mazda Cinema), Luxa Rd, Godoulia, T0542-235 8852. Daily 0700-2200, changes TCs and 36 currencies, has a 24-hr counter at Shanti Guest House, T0542-239 2017, and Cantt Office, above Union Bank of India, on the Mall, T0542-251 1052. Shops changing money offer a poor rate.

Internet

Many along Bengali Tola and around Assi Ghat, about Rs 30 per hr.

Medical services

Ambulance: T0542-233 3723. Heritage Hospital, Lanka (near BHU main entrance), T0542-236 8888. Private hospital, out-patients 0830-2000. Many hotels, even budget ones, have a doctor on call.

Post

Head Post Office: Bisheshwarganj (parcel packing outside). Post office in Cantt, Mon-Sat 1000-1800. A man offers to ‘help’ get a parcel posted for a fee (Rs 100), but you can do this yourself. Also a small post office on Bengali Tola. Couriers: City Airlinkers, Cantt, T0542-234 4214.

Useful contacts

Fire: T101, T0542-232 2888. Police: T100. Foreigners’ Registration Office: Sidh Giri Bagh (not easy to find), T0542-241 1968.