Lucknow travel guide

Background

Today Lucknow is a major administrative centre and market city, growing rapidly on both sides of the Gomti River from its historic core along the river’s right bank. Although the discovery of Painted Grey Ware and Northern Black pottery demonstrates the long period over which the site has been occupied, its main claim to fame is as the capital of the cultured Nawabs of Oudh (Avadh), and later the scene of one of the most remarkable episodes in the ‘Uprising’ of 1857. Lucknow developed rapidly under the Mughal Emperor Akbar’s patronage in the 16th century. In the early 18th century, Nawab Saadat Khan Burhan-ul-Mulk, a Persian courtier, founded the Oudh Dynasty. The city’s growing reputation as a cultural centre attracted many others from Persia, leaving an indelible Shi’a imprint on the city’s life. The builder of ‘modern’ Lucknow was Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula who shifted his capital here from Faizabad in 1775. In the attempt to build a wonderful city he emptied the regal coffers.

In the mid-1850s under Lord Dalhousie, the British annexed a number of Indian states. Percival Spear suggested that Dalhousie considered British rule so superior to Indian that the more territory directly administered by the British the better it would be for Indians. He evolved a policy of lapse whereby the states of Indian princes without direct heirs could be taken over on the ruler’s death. Chronic mismanagement was also deemed just cause for takeover, the justification given for the annexation of Oudh. The novelist Premchand in the Chess Players attributes the fall of Oudh to the fact that “small and big, rich and poor, were dedicated alike to sensual joys … song, dance and opium”. History suggests that Nawab Wajid Ali Shah continued with his game of chess even as British soldiers occupied his capital. A strong British presence was established in the city as it became a key administrative and military centre. Satyajit Ray’s film ‘Satranj Ki Khilari (The Chess Players)’ is excellent.

When the ‘Uprising’ (previously referred to as the Mutiny) broke in 1857, Sir Henry Lawrence gathered the British community into the Residency which rapidly became a fortress. The ensuing siege lasted for 87 days. When the relieving force under Sir Colin Campbell finally broke through, the once splendid Residency was a blackened ruin, its walls pockmarked and gaping with cannonball holes. Today it is a mute witness to a desperate struggle.

Under the Nawabs, Lucknow evolved specialized styles of dance, poetry, music and calligraphy. The Lucknowi gharana (house) of music and the exquisite crafts are reminders of its splendid past as it remains the regional cultural capital. Today, of the vintage modes of travel, only the ekka (one-horse carriage) has survived. To trace its Muslim heritage, visit the Bara and Chhota Imambaras, Shah Najaf Imambara and take a look at the Rumi Darwaza, Clock Tower and Chattar Manzil. Among the colonial monuments, the Residency and Constantia are the most rewarding.

Parivartan Chowk and the black Mayawati monument, which faces Clarks Avadh Hotel, symbolize parivartan (the spirit of ‘change’) which the 1997-1998 government of the fiery Chief Minister Mayawati hoped to encourage by giving increasing power to the scheduled castes. Recently Lucknow has been through periods of violent communal tension which is partly explained by the important BJP presence here.

Getting around

The main sites are close enough to the centre to visit by cycle-rickshaw, or by hopping on a cheap shared tempo which run on fixed routes. However, the city is quite spread out and for extended sightseeing it is worth hiring a taxi.

Ins and outs

Getting there

The modern airport, connected by direct flights to Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Patna, is 14 km south of the city, about half an hour by taxi. Lucknow is well connected by train and road to other major cities of the north. The City Railway Station is in the southeast corner of the Hussainabad area, close to the historic sights, while the Charbagh Railway Station is to the south. The Kaiserbagh Bus Stand near the centre is for long-distance services, while local buses terminate at the Charbagh Station Bus Stand.

Lucknow

Air

Amausi Airport, 14 km; pre-paid taxis available, Rs 160-200 to hotel. Indian Airlines, Clarks Hotel, T0522-262 6623 (1000-1730, ticketing 1000-1300,1400-1630); airport T0522-243 5401 (1600-1830). Flights to Delhi, Kolkata, Patna, Mumbai. Jet Airways, 6 Park Rd, T0522-223 9612; airport T0522- 243 4009, to Delhi. Deccan, T3900 8888, to Delhi. Air India, T0522-231 2409.

Bus

Local

Extensive network and cheap. UP Roadways bus stands are mostly local and some out-of-town from Charbagh (opposite railway station), T0522-245 8096.

Long distance

Out-of-town: UP Roadways, Charbagh Bus Stand, T0522-245 0988 (24-hr left luggage), 0600-2200, Rs 2-5 per piece. Bus to Kanpur, 2½ hrs. Kaisarbagh Bus Stand, T0522-222 2503. Bus to Delhi, 10-12 hrs.

Rickshaw

Tempo-rickshaws on fixed routes are cheap (Rs 3 minimum) and easy to use (from station, cross the road and ask for a landmark nearby, eg GPO). Cycle-rickshaws and horse tongas are widely available; Rs 10 for 2 km.

Taxi

Unmetered. Private taxis from Lucknow Car Taxi Owners Assoc, Station Rd, and hotels and agencies. Full day (8 hrs; 80 km), non-a/c Rs 500, a/c Rs 1000.

Train

Take special care of belongings at the railway station. Theft is common.

Lucknow is on the Northern and Northeastern railway lines. Charbagh (Lucknow Junction) Station is 3 km southwest of town centre. Computerized reservation is nearby (turn right from station; it is on the 1st street corner on the left). 24-hr left luggage across the road. Rest room, dormitory bed and locker (use your own lock), Rs 30 for 12 hrs. Northern Railway : enquiries T131 (Arrivals T1331, Departures T1332); reservations Charbagh T0522-263 5841. Northeastern Railway: enquiries T0522-263 5877. Some trains from City Station, weekdays 0830-1530, 1600-1930, Sun 0830-1530. Agra Fort: Marudhar Exp 4853/4863, 0005, 6 hrs. Allahabad: Nauchandi Exp 4512, 0525, 4¾ hrs; Ganga-Gomti Exp 4216, 1835, 4¼ hrs; Intercity Exp 4210, 0730, 4½ hrs. Bhopal: Pushpak Exp 2534, 1950, 10½ hrs. Gorakhpur (for Nepal): Several, best are Kathgodam Howrah Bagh Exp 3020, 0615, 7 hrs; Krishak Exp 5008, 2300, 7¼ hrs. Jabalpur (for Kanha): Chitrakoot Exp 5010, 1730, 15½ hrs. Jhansi: Kushinagar Exp 1016, 0040, 6½ hrs; Pushpak Exp 2534, 1950, 6½ hrs. Kanpur: Gomti Exp 2419, Mon-Sat 0530, 1½ hrs; Shatabdi Exp 2003, 1535, 1½ hrs. Kolkata (H): Amritsar-Howrah Mail 3006, 1055, 20¾ hrs; Doon Exp 3010, 0845, 22¼ hrs. Kathgodam (for Nainital): Bagh Exp 3019, 0030, 9 hrs. New Delhi: Gomti Exp 2419, Mon-Sat 0530, 8 hrs; Shatabdi Exp 2003, 1535, 6¼ hrs; Lucknow New Delhi Mail 2229, 2200, 9¼ hrs. Varanasi: Kashi Vishwanath Exp 4258, 2315, 6¼ hrs; Varuna Exp 4228, 1800, 5¾ hrs.

Banks

Mon-Fri 1030-1430, Sat 1030-1230. State Bank, Hazratganj, T0522-222 7804, and Punjab National Bank, Ashok Marg change money. Many ATMs on Mahatma Gandhi Rd, eg ICICI, UTI.

Internet

30 Hazratganj, Rs 30 per hr, clean, fairly fast; opposite Mu Man , Rs 15 per hr, plus several Sify outlets.

Medical services

Ambulance: T102. Balrampur, Golaganj, T0522-262 4040. Chhatrapati, Chowk, T0522-226 6175, Sanjay Gandhi, Rai Bareli Rd, T0522-266 8700.

Post

GPO: Vidhan Sabha Marg, 0930-1730. Also in Chowk and Mahanagar.

Useful contacts

Fire: T101. Police: T100. Archaeological Survey of India: Amirud Daula Kothi, Kaisarbagh. Foreigners’ Registration Office: 5th floor, Jawahar Bhavan, Ashok Marg. Wildlife Office: 17 Rana Pratap Marg, T0522-220 6584.