Jaipur travel guide

History

Jaipur (’City of Victory’) was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Jai Singh II, a Kachhawaha Rajput, who ruled from 1699 to 1744. He had inherited a kingdom under threat not only from the last great Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, but also from the Maratha armies of Gujarat and Maharashtra. Victories over the Marathas and diplomacy with Aurangzeb won back the favour of the ageing Mughal, so that the political stability that Maharaja Jai Singh was instrumental in creating was protected, allowing him to pursue his scientific and cultural interests. Jaipur is very much a product of his intellect and talent. A story relates an encounter between the Emperor Aurangzeb and the 10-year-old Rajput prince. When asked what punishment he deserved for his family’s hostility and resistance to the Mughals, the boy answered “Your Majesty, when the groom takes the bride’s hand, he confers lifelong protection. Now that the Emperor has taken my hand, what have I to fear?” Impressed by his tact and intelligence, Aurangzeb bestowed the title of Sawai (one and a quarter) on him, signifying that he would be a leader.

Jai Singh loved mathematics and science, and was a keen student of astronomy, via Sanskrit translations of Ptolemy and Euclid. A brilliant Brahmin scholar from Bengal, Vidyadhar Bhattacharya, helped him to design the city. Work began in 1727 and it took four years to build the main palaces, central square and principal roads. The layout of streets was based on a mathematical grid of nine squares representing the ancient Hindu map of the universe, with the sacred Mount Meru, home of Siva, occupying the central square. In Jaipur the royal palace is at the centre. The three-by-three square grid was modified by relocating the northwest square in the southeast, allowing the hill fort of Nahargarh (Tiger Fort) to overlook and protect the capital. At the southeast and southwest corners of the city were squares with pavilions and ornamental fountains. Water for these was provided by an underground aqueduct with outlets for public use along the streets. The main streets are 33 yards wide (33 is auspicious in Hinduism). The pavements were deliberately wide to promote the free flow of pedestrian traffic and the shops were also a standard size. Built with ancient Hindu rules of town planning in mind, Jaipur was advanced for its time. Yet many of its buildings suggest a decline in architectural power and originality. The architectural historian Giles Tillotson argues that the “traditional architectural details lack vigour and depth and are also flattened so that they become relief sculpture on the building’s surface, and sometimes they are simply drawn on in white outline”.

In addition to its original buildings, Jaipur has a number of examples of late 19th- century buildings which marked an attempt to revive Indian architectural skills. A key figure in this movement was Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob. A school of art was founded in 1866 by a group of English officers employed by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II to encourage an interest in Indian tradition and its development. In February 1876 the Prince of Wales visited Jaipur, and work on the Albert Hall, now the Central Museum, was begun to a design of Jacob. It was the first of a number of construction projects in which Indian craftsmen and designers were employed in both building and design. This ensured that the Albert Hall was an extremely striking building in its own right. The opportunities for training provided under Jacob’s auspices encouraged a new school of Indian architects and builders. One of the best examples of their work is the Mubarak Mahal (1900), now Palace Museum, designed by Lala Chiman Lal.

W A good insight into the worlds of maharajahs and the Jaipur of yesteryear is the memoir of Maharani Gayatri Devi, A Princess Remembers.

Getting around

The walled Old City, to the northeast of town, holds most of the sights and the bazaar. Take a rickshaw to the area, then explore on foot. What few attractions the new town holds are spread out so it’s best explored by rickshaw, bus or taxi.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Sanganer Airport, 15 km south of town, has flights from Ahmedabad, Chennai, Delhi, Jodhpur, Mumbai, Rajkot and Udaipur. Airport buses, taxis and auto- rickshaws take 30 minutes to the centre. The railway station has links with most major cities. The Main Bus Terminal at Sindhi Camp is used by state and private buses. Buses from Delhi use the dramatically improved NH8; the journey now takes under four hours by car. The alternative Gurgaon–Alwar–Jaipur route is more interesting but much slower. Most hotels are a short auto-rickshaw ride away from the station and bus terminal.

Jaipur

Air

Sanganer Airport, T0141-272 1333, has good facilities. Transport to town: taxi, 30 mins, Rs 250-300; auto-rickshaw Rs 150. Indian Airlines, Nehru Pl, Tonk Rd, T0141-274 3324; airport, T0141-272 1519, flies to Delhi, Mumbai, Udaipur, Ahmedabad, Kolkata, Dubai. Jet Airways, T0141-511 2222; airport T0141-255 1352, flies to Delhi, Mumbai and Udaipur. Go Air, T0141-650 0801, flies to Delhi and Mumbai. Spicejet, T18000-180 3333, to Ahmedabad, Chennai, Hyderabad and Mumbai. Air Deccan, T3900 8888, to Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Mumbai. Kingfisher, T0141-272 3485 or T1800-180 0101 to Goa, Hyderabad, Kolkata and Mumbai.

Bus

Local

Unless you have plenty of time and a very limited budget, the best way to get around the city is by auto-rickshaw. To Amber, buses originate from Ajmeri Gate, junction with Mirza Ismail Rd, so get on there if you want a seat.

Long distance

Central Bus Stand, Sindhi Camp, Station Rd. Enquiries: Deluxe, Platform 3, T0141-511 6031, Express, T0141-511 6044 (24 hrs). Left luggage, Rs 10 per item per day. When arriving, particularly from Agra, you may be told to get off at Narain Singh Chowk, a bus stand some distance south of the centre; to avoid paying an inflated auto-rickshaw fare, insist on staying on until you reach the bus stand. Private buses will drop you on Station Rd but are not allowed inside the terminal. State and private Deluxe buses are very popular so book 2 days in advance. To Agra 12 buses a day 0600-2400, 6½ hrs with 1 hr stop, a/c buses at 0800 and 1415, Rs 194/316, a/c, pay when seat number is written on ticket; (230 km, 5 hrs, via Bharatpur) – get off at the 2nd (last) stop to avoid being hassled by rickshaw drivers; Ajmer (131 km, regular service 0400-2330, 3 hrs, Rs 94/135 for a/c); Bharatpur 5 buses a day, but all deluxe and a/c buses to Agra go through Bharatpur but you have to pay Agra fare Rs 119; Delhi (261 km, ½ hourly, 5½ hrs, almost hourly service with deluxe, Pink Line and Volvo buses running Rs 300/500 for a/c; Jaisalmer (654 km, 2145, 13 hrs via Jodhpur, Rs 391). Jodhpur (332 km, frequent, 7 hrs, Rs 219/322); Udaipur (374 km, 12 hrs, Rs 267 for a/c, 4 a/c and sleeper buses Rs 419 for a/c and sleeper); Kota via Bundi (7 daily, 4-5 hrs); Chittaurgarh (deluxe, 1200, 2115, 2400). One daily to Shimla (2000); and Haridwar (2200) – mixed reports on Shimla and Haridwar service, often you have to change in Delhi and pay again.

Rickshaw

Auto-rickshaw

Avoid hotel touts and use the pre-paid auto-rickshaw counter to get to your hotel. Persistent auto-rickshaw drivers at railway station may quote Rs 10 to anywhere in town, then overcharge for city tour.

Station to city centre hotel, about Rs 30; sightseeing (3-4 hrs) Rs 200, 6-7 hrs, Rs 360. From railway and bus stations, drivers (who expect to take you to shops for commission) offer whole-day hire including Amber for Rs 150; have your list of sights planned and refuse to go to shops.

Cycle rickshaw

(Often rickety) station to central hotels, Rs 15-20; full day Rs 100.

Taxi

Unmetered taxis; 4 hrs costs Rs 450 (40 km), 8 hrs costs Rs 750 (city and Amber). Extra hill charge for Amber, Raigarh, Nahargarh. Out of city Rs 5-8 per km; Marudhar Tours recommended; or try RTDC, T0141-220 3531. Also Pink City Taxis, T0141-511 5100, excellent radio cab service.

Train

Enquiry, T131, T0141-220 4536, reservation T135. Computerized booking office in separate building to front and left of station; separate queue for foreigners. Use pre-paid rickshaw counter. Abu Rd (for Mount Abu) Ahmedabad Mail 9106, 0455, 8½ hrs, Aravali Exp 9708 (goes on to Mumbai), 0835, 8 hrs; Agra Cantt: Marudhar Exp 4854/4864, 1550, 7 hrs. Ahmedabad: Aravali Exp 9708, 0845, 14 hrs; Ashram Exp 2916, 2045, 11½ hrs. Rajdhani Exp 2958, not Tue 0045, 9 hrs. Ajmer: Aravali Exp 9708, 0845, 2½ hrs; Bikaner: Bikaner Exp 4737, 2210, 10 hrs; Intercity Exp 2468, 1550, 7 hrs. Chittaurgarh: Chittaurgarh Exp 9769, 1200, 7½ hrs; Chetak Exp 4715, 1945, 8½ hrs. Delhi: Shatabdi 2016, 1745, 4 hrs 25 mins, Jaipur JAT Exp 2413, 1635, 5½ hrs; Haridwar Mail 9105, 2310, 5½ hrs. Indore: Jaipur Indore Exp 2974, Fri and Sun 2115, 9½ hrs; Jodhpur: Ranthambhore Exp 2465, 1705, 5 ½ hrs; Intercity Exp 2465, 1740, 5½ hrs. Mumbai (C): Jaipur BCT Superfast 2956, 1410, 18½ hrs; Udaipur : Udaipur City Exp 2965, 2240, 10 hrs. Varanasi via Lucknow: Marudhar Exp 4864, 1540, 20 hrs.

Banks

Several on Mirza Ismail Rd and Ashok Marg. Open 1030-1430, 1530-1630; most change money and have ATMs. ATMs also scattered along Johari Bazar and in C scheme Thomas Cook, Jaipur Towers, 1st floor, Mirza Ismail Rd (500 m from railway station, T0141-236 0801, 0930-1800, open Sun). No commission on own TCs, Rs 20 for others. Recommended. Often easier to use hotels, eg Pearl Palace (24-hr, fast, good rates). Karwan Tours, Bissau Palace (sunrise until late). Jewellery shops opposite Hawa Mahal often hold exchange licences but travellers report misuse of credit cards at some.

Internet

Most hotels have a computer or 2. Handy new facility at railway station near platform ticket office, plus many others scattered around city, eg Ganpati Plaza basement, Re 1 per min; Mirza Ismail Rd opposite Niro’s, Rs 25-30/hr; Mewar, near Central Bus Stand, 24 hrs, also has faxing.

Medical services

Ambulance: T102. Santokba Durlabhji Hospital, Bhawani Singh Rd, T0141-256 6251. SMS Hospital, Sawai Ram Singh Marg, T0141-256 0291.

Post

GPO, Mirza Ismail Rd. Excellent parcel service. Take parcels to Customs counter upstairs for quick dispatch. Parcel-wallah to left of gate stitches packages, Rs 50-150.

Useful contacts

Fire: T101. Police: T100. Directory enquiries T197. Foreigners’ Registration Office: Hazari Garden, behind Hawa Mahal.