Gwalior travel guide

History

In legend, Gwalior’s history goes back to AD 8 when the chieftain Suraj Sen was cured of leprosy by a hermit saint, Gwalipa. In gratitude he founded and named the city after him. An inscription in the fort records that during the fifth-century reign of Mihiragula the Hun, a temple of the sun was erected here. Later, Rajput clans took and held the fort. Muslim invaders like Qutb-ud-din-Aibak (12th century) ruled Gwalior before it passed through a succession of Tomar Rajput, Mughal, Afghan and Maratha hands. During the 1857 Mutiny, the Maharaja remained loyal to the British but 6500 of his troops mutinied on 14 June. The next year, there was fierce fighting round Gwalior, the rebels being led by Tantia Topi and the Rani of Jhansi. When the fort was taken by the British, the Rani was found, dressed in men’s clothes, among the slain.

WThe Maharaja (Scindia) of Gwalior was one of five Maharajas awarded a 21-gun salute by the British.

Getting around

In addition to a tempo stand near the station, there are unmetered autos and taxis. Gwalior is quite spread out and the fort is a stiff climb.

Ins and outs

Getting there

There are a daily flights from Delhi and Indore, but the Shatabdi Express gives Gwalior excellent train connections with Agra and Delhi to the north and Jhansi and Bhopal to the south. The railway station and Madhya Pradesh State Bus Stand are southeast of the fort. From there, it is 6 km along the dusty MLB Road to the Jayaji Chowk area of Lashkar, the New Town.

Gwalior

Air

The airport is 9 km from town. Air Deccan, T3900 8888, flies to Delhi and Indore daily. Taxi to town, about Rs 150.

Bus

Bus stand, Link Rd, T0751-234 0192. Frequent buses to Agra, Bhopal, Indore and Shivpuri. Daily to Khajuraho.

Rickshaw

Prepaid auto-rickshaw stand at the railway station. Cycle-rickshaw charge around Rs 25 for rides within town. Tempos on fixed routes, Rs 3-8.

Taxi

Charge about Rs 600-800 for 80 km/ 8 hrs visiting all sights, once only; best to visit fort last and stay on for Son et Lumière. Evening visit to fort, Rs 250-300.

Train

Tickets for the Shatabdi Express are usually sold in the separate, ‘non- computerized’ queue. Gwalior is on the main Delhi–Mumbai and Delhi–Chennai lines. Enquiries T131, reservations T135. For Agra Cantt, take any Delhi train, 1¾ hrs. Bhopal: Shatabdi Exp 2002, 0930 (Fri 0945), 5 hrs; Punjab Mail 2138, 1040, 6¼ hrs; Lakshadweep Exp 2618, 1400, 6 hrs. Delhi: Lakshadweep Exp 2617, 0822, 6 hrs (HN); Punjab Mail 2137, 1518, 5½ hrs (ND); Taj Exp 2279, 1655, 5 hrs (HN); Dadar Amritsar Exp 1057, 2150, 5½ hrs (ND). Jabalpur (for Kanha): Gondwana Exp 2412, 2022, 11 hrs; Mahakoshal Exp 2190, 2108, 13¼ hrs. Jhansi: see Bhopal, journey time 1-1½ hrs. Mumbai (CST): Punjab Mail 2138, 1040, 21¼ hrs, plus others to Dadar. Varanasi: Bundelkhand Exp 1107, 1950, 14½ hrs (calling at Allahabad 4 hrs earlier).

Post

GPO: Jayaji Chowk, Birla Nagar, Morar and Residency.