Leh travel guide

History

The city developed as a trading post and market, attracting a wide variety of merchants – from Yarkand, Kashgar, Kashmir, Tibet and North India. Tea, salt, household articles, wool and semi-precious stones were all traded in the market. Buddhism travelled along the Silk Road and the Kashmir and Ladakh feeder, which has also seen the passage of soldiers, explorers and pilgrims, forerunners of the tourists who today contribute most to the urban economy.

Dates vary depending on the lunar calendar.

Getting around

Most hotels are within a few minutes’ walk of the Main Bazar Street around which Leh’s activities are concentrated. All the places of interest in Leh itself can also be tackled on foot by most visitors though those arriving by air are urged to acclimatize for 48 hours before exerting themselves. For visiting monasteries and spots out of town arrange a jeep or taxi.

Ins and outs

Getting there

For seven to eight months in the year Leh is cut off by snow and the sole link with the outside world is by air. Tickets are in high demand so it is essential to book well ahead (you can do this from home on the internet). From mid-June to the end of September (weather permitting) the Manali–Leh highway opens to traffic, bringing travellers to the New Bus Stand south of town. Jeeps wait at both the airport and bus stand to take you to town.

Leh

Air

The small airport is 5 km away on Srinagar Rd. It is surrounded by hills on 3 sides and the flight over the mountain ranges is spectacular. Transport to town: buses, and jeep-taxis for sharing, or around Rs 200 for charter.

Allow 2 hrs for check in; no hand luggage allowed. Weather conditions may deteriorate rapidly even in the summer resulting in flight cancellations (especially outside Jul and Aug) so always be prepared for a delay or to take alternative road transport out of Ladakh. Furthermore, the airlines fly quite full planes into Leh but can take fewer passengers out because of the high-altitude take-off. This adds to the difficulty of getting a flight out. Book your tickets as soon as possible (several months ahead for Jul and Aug). You can book on the internet before you depart for India (eg http://www.welcometravel.com).

Tickets bought in Leh may not be ‘confirmed’. Avoid connecting with an onward flight or train immediately after your visit to Ladakh. If you fail to get on the outward flight, you do not get an immediate refund from the airline but have to reclaim it from the travel agent. It is therefore essential to have enough money to travel out by road if your return is imperative; a taxi to Manali takes 2 days and to Delhi a further 15 hrs. Despite the difficulties, even if you do not have a firm outward booking and have been ‘wait-listed’ you may sometimes get on a flight at short notice, if weather conditions improve. Check in early to stand a better chance. Indian Airlines, office near Shambhala Hotel (often chaotic), T01982- 252076, airport T01982-252255, www.indian airlines.nic.in, flies to/from Delhi, Tue-Sun in season (Jul-Sep), with an additional 7 flights weekly offered through its subsidiary Alliance Air; to Jammu, Sun, Fri; Srinagar, Wed. Jet Airways, T01982-250999; airport T01982- 250324, http://www.jetairways.com, to Delhi daily except Sat. Air Deccan, T3900 8888, Spicejet, T1800-180 3333, also fly to Delhi.

Bus

Local

The New Bus Stand is near the cemetery. The vehicles are ramshackle but the fares are low. Enquiries J&KSRTC, T01982-252285.

Long distance

Himachal Tourism runs regular (not daily) Deluxe and Ordinary buses between Manali and Leh, usually mid-Jun to end Sep. To Manali, 530 km, ‘Deluxe’, booked at HPTDC, Fort Rd, or at travel agents, Rs 1600 includes camp bed and meals in Keylong); Ordinary bus Rs 425, gruelling journey departs 0400 Ordinary (Private) booked at bus stand, ‘A’ Rs 500, and ‘B’, Rs 425, stop overnight at Keylong. J&KSRTC bus Kargil, 230 km (alternate days in summer) Rs 110-180, Srinagar 434 km, Rs 200-360.

Road

If you have travelled by road you may already be better acclimatized, but a mild headache is common and can be treated with aspirin or paracetamol. Drink plenty of fluids on journeys.

Leh is connected to Manali via Keylong (closed Oct to mid-Jun or longer) and to Srinagar, via Kargil, by a State Highway. Both can be seriously affected by landslides, causing long delays. The Leh–Srinagar road is also often blocked by army convoys. Information on road conditions from the Traffic Police HQ, Maulana Azad Rd, Srinagar.

The road to Manali, crossing some very high passes, is open mid-Jun or early Jul, until end Sep (depending on the weather) and takes 2 days. Road conditions may be poor in places. Departure from Leh can be early (0400) with overnight stop in Keylong; next day to Manali. Alternatively, camp in Sarchu (10 hrs from Leh), or Jespa; next day 14 hrs to Manali (Rs 150 each in Sarchu, camp). Road- side tents provide food en route during the tourist season; carry snacks, water and a good sleeping bag when planning to camp. Many travellers find the mountain roads extremely frightening and they are comparatively dangerous. Some are cut out of extremely unstable hillsides, usually with nothing between the road’s edge and the near- vertical drop below; parts remain rough and pot- holed and during the monsoons, landslides and rivers can make it impassable for 2-3 days. It is also a long and uncomfortable journey, but there is some spectacular scenery.

Taxi

4WD between Leh and Manali are expensive but recommended if you want to stop en route to visit monasteries. 2-day trip, about Rs 13,000. Taxis often return empty to Manali (some visitors choose to fly out of Leh) so may agree a much reduced fare for the return leg. Officially, Manali (or Srinagar) taxis are allowed to carry their passengers to and from Leh but are not permitted to do local tours, a rule fiercely monitored by the Leh Taxi Operators’ Union.

Tourist taxi and jeep

Ladakh Taxi Operators’ Union, Fort Rd, T01982-252723. Fixed fares point-to-point. From the airport to Main Bazar, about Rs 150; from bus stand Rs 60. A day’s taxi hire to visit nearby gompas costs about Rs 1000-1200; Nubra Rs 6000.

Banks

J&K Bank, Main Bazar, with Maestro ATM; State Bank of India, slow exchange and temperamental ATM, next to tourist office. Large hotels and Amex (1030-1430, Sat 1030-1230) in Kangri and Yak Tail, charge a steep commission.

Internet

Several on Fort Rd, but email very erratic, slow and poor value at over Rs 100 an hr. Phone connections with the rest of India are unpredictable.

Medical services

Ambulance: T102. SNM Hospital, T01982-252014, 0900-1700 (also for advice on mountain sickness), after hours, T01982-253629. During the day, doctors have little time; better at clinics in evenings. Soway Clinic, in Bazar; Kunfan Octsnang Clinic; Ladakh Medicate, behind post office (ask for Dr Norbu, Old Leh Rd).

Post

Head Post Office and Telegraph Office: Airport Rd, 3 km from Leh centre (1000-1500); parcels often disappear. Mail may be sent via Gypsy’s World, Fort Rd, T01982-252935 (not fail safe); make sure addressed c/o Gypsy’s World, PO Box 160, Leh, Ladakh 194101, India.

Telephone

Pick up faxes here for a small fee;

Useful contacts

Police: T01982-252018. Foreigners’ Registration Office: T01982-252200. Deputy Commisioner’s Office for Inner Line Permits: T01982-252010, F01982-252106. Take passport, copies of visa and personal details pages and 2 photos.