Dharamsala travel guide

Background

The hill station was established by the British between 1815 and 1847, but remained a minor town until the Dalai Lama settled here after Chinese invasion of Tibet in October 1959. There is an obvious Tibetan influence in McLeodganj. The Tibetan community has tended to take over the hospitality business, sometimes a cause of friction with the local population. Now many Westerners come here because they are particularly interested in Buddhism, meditation or the Tibetan cause. A visitor’s attempt to use a few phrases in Tibetan is always warmly responded to: tashi delek (hello, good luck), thukje-chey (thank you), thukje-sik (please), gong-thag (sorry), and shoo-den-jaa-go (goodbye).

Summer Vacation : May to July ( Temp. is about 28 deg C to 18 deg C)

Getting around

From Dharamshala, it is almost 10 km by the bus route to McLeodganj but a shorter, steeper path (3 km) takes about 45 minutes on foot. Local jeeps use this bumpy, potholed shortcut. Compact McLeodganj itself, and its surroundings, are ideal for walking.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Flights to Gaggal Airport (13 km). Lower Dharamshala is well connected by bus with towns near and far. You can travel from Shimla to the southeast or from Hoshiarpur to the southwest along the fastest route from Delhi. The nearest station on the scenic mountain railway is at Kangra, while Pathankot to the west is on the broad gauge.

Dharamshala

It is dangerous to drive at night in the hills. The roads are not lit and the risks of running off the edge are great.

Air

Nearest airport is at Gaggal, T01892-232374, 13 km (taxi Rs 500-650). To/from Delhi with Indian Airlines, T011-2331 0517; Air Deccan, T3900-8888, http://www.airdeccan.net; Jagson Airways T011-2372 1593, 10 kg luggage, dubious reliability.

Bus

Local

Buses and share jeeps between Dharamshala and McLeodganj, 10 km, 30 mins’ ride, Rs 7.

Long distance

Most originate in Dharamshala, T01892-224903, but some super and semi-deluxe buses leave from below the taxi stand in McLeodganj. HRTC enquiries, T01892-221750. HPTDC run luxury coaches in season). Delhi (Kashmir Gate, 521 km), semi-deluxe coach departs McLeodganj 1630, 1800, 1930, 14 hrs, Rs 280; super deluxe coach to Connaught Pl, 1900, Rs 400. From Delhi at same times. 1930 arrives Lower Dharamshala 1000, recommended for best morning views of the foothills (stops en route). Dalhousie and Chamba, 0730, 0830, 1730, Rs150, 8 hrs; Manali, 2030, Rs 201, 8 hrs. HRTC buses to Baijnath, 2½ hrs, Rs 30; Chandigarh (248 km), 9 hrs, Rs 160 via Una (overnight stop possible); also deluxe buses to Dehra Dun, 2100, Rs 275 and Shimla, 1930, 2130 (from Dharamshala), Rs 190. Kangra, 50 mins, Rs 14; Kullu (214 km) 10 hrs; Manali (253 km) 11 hrs, Rs 130 (private Rs 250); best to travel by day (0800), fabulous views but bus gets overcrowded; avoid sitting by door where people start to sit on your lap! Always keep baggage with you; Pathankot (90 km), several 1000-1600, 4 hrs, connection for Amritsar, 3 hrs; Shimla (317 km, via Hamirpur/Bilaspur), 10 hrs.

Private bus

service

Dalhousie, 0740, 6 hrs, Rs 125; Delhi (Connaught Pl), 1800, 1900, 11 hrs, Rs 400; Dehra Dun, 1900, 12 hrs, Rs 350; Manali, 0900, 2100, 8 hrs, Rs 250. Several private agents, although Bedi Travels have buses in the best condition.

Taxi

Local

Shared by 4, pick up shuttle taxi at Kotwali Bazar on its way down before it turns around at the bus stand, as it is usually full when it passes the taxi stand.

Long distance

Can be hired from near the bus stands, T01892-221205. Full day (80 km), Rs 800; between Dharamshala and McLeodganj, Rs 100; to Pathankot around Rs 1000.

Train

Nearest broad-gauge railhead is at Pathankot. Booking office at bus stand, below tourist office, 1000-1100.

Banks

Bank of Baroda, Kotwali Bazar. For Visa/MasterCard cash advances, T01892-223175, collect on next working day (Rs 100, plus 1% commission). State Bank of India, Kotwali Bazar, with ATM sometimes not keen on foreign cards; branch in McLeodganj changes TCs, 1000-1400. Western Union, near bus stand, McLeodganj, T01892- 221745. Money transfer and exchange, 1000-1930.

Internet

Dozens of places: Awasthi recommended, Dogga and Cloud 9 plush but drop outs not uncommon.

Medical services

Delek Hospital, T01892-221626, often foreign volunteer doctors, good for dentistry. District Hospital, T01892-222133. Men Tse Khang (Tibetan Medical Institute) T01892-222484, Gangchen Kyishong, for Tibetan herbal medicine. Dr Dolma’s and Dr Dhonden’s clinics, near McLeodganj Bazar for Tibetan treatment.

Post

GPO, 1 km below tourist office on Main Rd T01892-222912, Mon-Sat 1000-1630, another in Kotwali Bazar. In McLeodganj, the post office, Jogibara Rd, has poste restante.

Useful

contacts

Foreigners’ Registration Office: Civil Lines, beyond GPO, near petrol pump. Police: T01892-224893.