Picturesque Chamba is on the south bank of the Iravati (Ravi), its stone houses clinging to the hillside. Some see the medieval town as having an almost Italian feel, surrounded by lush forests and with its Chaugan or grassy meadow in the centre, although recent developments have somewhat diminished its appeal. Most hotels, temples and palaces are within walking distance of the bus stand.
Founded in the 10th century, Chamba State was on an important trade route from Lahaul to Kashmir and was known as the ‘Middle Kingdom’. Though Mughal suzerainty was accepted by the local rajas, the kingdom remained autonomous but it came under Sikh rule from 1810-1846. Its relative isolation led to the nurturing of the arts – painting, temple sculpture, handicrafts and unique ‘rumal’. These pieces of silk/cotton with fine embroidery imitate miniature paintings; the reverse is as good as the front.
Chamba is the centre of the Gaddis, shepherds who move their flocks of sheep and goats, numbering from a couple of hundred to a thousand, from lower pastures at around 1500 m during winter to higher slopes at over 3500 m, after snow-melt. They are usually only found in the Dhaula Dhar range which separates Kangra from Chamba. Some believe that these herdsmen first arrived in this part of Himachal in the 10th century though some moved from the area around Lahore (Pakistan) in the 18th century, during the Mughal period. Their religious belief combines animism with the worship of Siva; Bahrmaur with its distinctive Manimahesh Temple is their principal centre of worship . In the winter the Gaddis can be seen round Kangra, Mandi and Bilaspur and in the small villages between Baijnath and Palampur. The men traditionally wear a chola (a loose white woollen garment), tied at the waist with a black wool rope and a white embroidered cap.
The Chaugan, almost a kilometre long, is the central hub of the town but sadly, over the last two decades, shops have encroached into the open space. There are several ancient Pahari temples with attractive curvilinear stone towers. The Lakshmi Narayana Temple Complex (ninth to 11th centuries) contains six sikhara temples with deep wooden eaves, several smaller shrines and a tank. These are dedicated to Vishnu and Siva, with some of the brass images inlaid with copper and silver. The Hari Rai Temple (14th century) contains a fine 11th-century bronze Chaturmurti (four-armed Vishnu), rarely visible as it is usually ‘dressed’. The 10th-century wooden Chamunda Devi Temple, 1 km north uphill from the bus stand, has some interesting wood carvings and stands over the river with commanding views. Others of note are the Bajreshwari, Bansigopal and Champavati.
The Akhand Chandi, the Chamba Maharajas’ palace, beyond the Lakshmi Narayan complex, is now a college. The old Rang Mahal (Painted Palace) in the Surara Mohalla was built by Raja Umed Singh in the mid 18th-century. A prisoner of the Mughals for 16 years, he was influenced by their architectural style. The wall paintings in one room are splendid. The theme is usually religious, Krishna stories being particularly popular. Some of these were removed, together with carvings and manuscripts, to the Bhuri Singh Museum after a fire....
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