Ahmedabad travel guide

History

Ahmedabad retains a highly distinctive feel born out of a long and continuously evolving social history. It was founded in 1411 by Ahmad Shah I, then king of Gujarat. He made Asaval, an old Hindu town in the south, his seat of power, then expanded it to make it his capital. Almost constantly at war with the neighbouring Rajputs, fortifications were essential. The Bhadra towers and the square bastions of the royal citadel were among the first to be built. The city walls had 12 gates, 139 towers and nearly 6000 battlements.

Although most of the Old City walls have gone, many monuments remain, some of them striking examples of Indian Islamic architecture. The provincial Gujarati style flourished from the mid-15th century, and in addition to the religious buildings many of the houses have façades beautifully decorated with woodcarving. The Swami Narayan Temple, Kalipur, Rajani Vaishnav Temple and Harkore Haveli, near Manek Chowk as well as havelis on Doshiwadani Pol, illustrate traditional carving skills. Unfortunately, much of the old carving has been dismantled to be sold off to collectors.

The ‘new’ city, on the west bank, has the site of Mahatma Gandhi’s famous Sabarmati Ashram from where he began his historic Salt March in protest against the Salt Law in 1915. Recent developments in urban design have contributed to the city’s architectural tradition. Modern Ahmedabad has several showpieces designed by famous architects, among them Le Corbusier, Louis Kahn, Doshi and Correa. The School of Architecture, the National Institute of Design and the Indian Institute of Management (IIM) are national centres of learning.

With a long tradition in craftsmanship under Gujarati Sultans and Mughal Viceroys, Ahmedabad was one of the most brilliant Indian cities. Its jewellers and goldsmiths are still renowned today; its copper and brassworkers craft very fine screens; and carpenters produce fine shisham wood articles. There are skilled stone masons, lacquer artists, ivory and bone carvers, hand- block printers and embroiderers producing exquisite pieces with beads and mirrors.

Getting around

Ahmedabad is far too sprawling to cover all the sights on foot so you will need to struggle with local buses or hire an auto or taxi.

Ins and outs

Getting there

The airport is 13 km northeast of town. Regular city buses collect passengers from the airport and arrive at Lal Darwaza, close to many budget hotels. Taxis charge Rs 200-250 from the airport, autos about Rs 100. Train travellers arrive at the Junction Station to the east of the Old City. Rickety old government buses use the Rajpur Gate Terminus to the south, while private buses depart from an array of informal locations around the city. There are plenty of metered taxis and auto-rickshaws to take you to a hotel.

Ahmedabad

Air

Air India, 2nd floor, GCCI Complex, Ashram Rd, T079-2658 5633. Air France, T079-2644 2391. Lufthansa, T079-2646 1443. Singapore Airlines, T079-3001 2828. Swissair, T079- 26561056. International flights to Abu Dhabi, Bangkok, Dubai, Geneva, Hong Kong, Kuwait, Muscat and Sharjah.

Domestic flights to Bengaluru (Bangalore), Chennai, Coimbatore, Delhi, Goa, Hyderabad, Jaipur, Jammu, Kolkata, Mumbai, Nagpur and Pune. The following airlines serve the city, but check a third-party website such as http://www.flightraja.com or http://www.makemytrip.com for the latest fares and schedules. Indian, Lal Darwaza, near Roopalee Cinema, T079-2550 3061. 1000-1315, 1415-1715, airport T1400, www.indianair lines.nic.in. Air Deccan, T079-3092 5213, http://www.airdeccan.net. Indigo, Empire Tower, CG Rd, T079-6450 5921. Jet Airways, Income Tax Char Rasta, Ashram Rd, T079-2754 3304, airport T079-2286 6540, http://www.jetairways.com. Kingfisher, T079-2844 2234, www.flyking fisher.com. Spicejet, T1800-1803333.

Bus

Local

City service available from main bus station, Lal Darwaza, railway station and all major points in the city.

Long distance

Central Bus Station, Geeta Mandir, T079-2546 3396; reservations 0700- 1900. Advance booking for night services 1500-2300, luxury coach services 1030-1800. Arrive early to find your bus. ST buses to Bhavnagar 4-5 hrs, Mehsana (2 hrs on good new road), Mumbai (492 km, 11 hrs), Palitana 217 km, Porbandar 394 km, Rajkot 216 km, Sasan Gir 385 km, Surat 120 km, and Vadodara 113 km. Udaipur 287 km. Private coaches offering sleeper seating to major towns in Gujarat and Rajasthan leave from around the ST Bus Stand and various suburban stands, often leaving at night. Ticket offices and departure points are usually close together. Agencies around ST stand may overcharge for a seat ‘booking’ then simply flag down the first bus that comes past; cheaper to wait outside stand (ask Punjab Travels, from K Gandhi Rd, Delhi Darwaza, and Embassy Market, Ashram Rd, T079-2658 9200. Pawan, Pritamnagar 1st Dhal, Ellis Bridge, T079-2657 5214, many places in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Shrinath, Shahibaug Rd, T079-2562 5351, for Udaipur. Tanna, Paldi Crossing, T079-2657 6351, for Bhavnagar. Shajanand, Shefali Complex, Paldi, for Diu; Mt Abu, 7 hrs (via Khed Brahma).

Rickshaw

Drivers readily use meters, which for now give an accurate reading. Station to Khanpur Rd/ Sidi Sayid area around Rs 30.

Taxi

Cars and 4WDs for hire from North West Safaries ; Green Channel, T079-2656 0489. Rs 6-12 per km, minimum Rs 250-350; around Rs 750-1200 per day.

Train

Always confirm from which station train departs. Ahmedabad Junction is on a broad gauge line to Mumbai (Platforms 1-4, near the main entrance) and a metre gauge line to Delhi (Platforms 7-12). Platforms 5 and 6 serve both, according to demand. A small number of trains use Gandhigram station on west bank. Computerized reservations at both stations: 1st class 0800-1530, 2nd class 0800-1430, 1500-2000, T135, enquiry T131. Last-minute berths can also be booked for some trains at a temporary counter on the platform; premium charged. The following leave from Junction unless stated.

Agra Cantt: Ahmedabad Gorakhpur Exp 5045, 0515, Tue, 25 hrs. Ajmer: Ahmedabad Haridwar Mail 9105, 0950, 10½ hrs (to Jaipur); Ashram Exp 2915, 1745, 7 hrs. Bengaluru (Bangalore): Ahmedabad Bangalore Exp 6501, 1800, Tue, 13¾ hrs. Bhavnagar: Bhavnagar Exp 2971, 0600, 5½ hrs. Bhopal: Rajkot- Bhopal Jabalpur Exp 1465/1463, 1845, 14 hrs. Chennai: Navjivan Exp 2655, 0630, 22¾ hrs. Delhi (OD): Ashram Exp 2915, 1745, 16½ hrs. Jaipur: Aravali Exp 9707, 0645, 13¾ hrs; Ashram Exp 2915, 1745, 11 hrs. Kolkata (H): Howrah Exp 2833, 2355, 20 hrs. Jamnagar: Saurashtra Exp 9215, 2015, 7½ hrs; Mumbai Okha Saurashtra Mail 9005, 0530, 7½ hrs (all stop at Rajkot, 2 hrs before Jamnagar). Jodhpur: Ranakpur Exp 4708, 0030, 10 hrs (continues to Bikaner, 6 hrs). Junagadh: Veraval Exp 1464, 0815, 8 hrs; Somnath Exp 9221, 2145, 10 hrs (both continue to Veraval, 2 hrs). Mehsana: Aravali Exp 9707, 0645, 1¾ hrs; Haridwar Mail 9105, 0950, 2 hrs; Ashram Exp 2915, 1745, 1½ hrs. Mumbai Central: Shatabdi Exp 2010, 1430, not Sun, 7¼ hrs; Gujarat Mail 2902, 2205, 8¾ hrs. Porbandar: Mumbai Porbandar Saurashtra Exp 9215, 2015, 10½ hrs. Udaipur City: DSR Express 9944, 2315, 9 hrs. Vadodara: see Mumbai, journey time 2-2½ hrs.

For Talking Yellow Pages T079-2777 7777.

Banks

Many ATMS on CG Rd, Ashram Rd and in Lal Darwaza, give cash on Cirrus/ Maestro and credit cards. Amex, Foreign Exchange Bureau, all on CG Rd; Thomas Cook, Super Mall, CG Rd, less paperwork and open till late.

Cultural centres

West of Ellis Bridge, Alliance Française, behind Gujarat College. British Library, near Law Garden, T079-2646 4693, a/c, clean toilets.

Internet

Cyber Café, Shri Krishna Centre, Mithakhali. Log-In, 92 Kamdhenu Complex, Polytechnic Rd, Ambawadi, T079-2630 2019, also printouts. Random Access, Ambawadi, 10 terminals.

Medical services

Ambulance: T102. Civil Hospital, Asarwa, T079-2268 3721; Rajasthan T079-2286 6311; VS T079-2657 7621; Heart Foundation, T079-2657 5555.

Post

GPO: off Relief Rd. Others at Navrangpura, Ellis Bridge, Gandhi Ashram, Gandhi Rd, Gujarat University, IIM, Madhavpura market, Polytechnic and Ambawadi, all with Speed Post.

Useful contacts

Fire: T101. Police: T100. Foreigners’ Regional Registration Office: Police Commissioner’s Office, Shahi Bagh.