Delhi travel guide

History

In the modern period, Delhi has only been India’s capital since 1911. It is a city of yo-yoing fortunes and has been repeatedly reduced to rubble. There have been at least eight cities founded on the site of modern Delhi.

According to Hindu mythology, Delhi’s first avatar was as the site of a dazzlingly wealthy city, Indraprastha, mentioned in the Mahabharata and founded around 2500 BC. The next five cities were to the south of today’s Delhi. First was Lalkot, which, from 1206, became the capital of the Delhi Sultanate under the Slave Dynasty. The story of the first Sultan of Delhi, Qutb-ud-din Aybak, is a classic rags-to-riches story. A former slave, he rose through the ranks to become a general, a governor and then Sultan of Delhi. He is responsible for building Qutb Minar, but died before its completion.

The 1300s were a tumultuous time for Delhi, with five cities built during the century. Siri, the first of these, has gruesome roots. Legend has it that the city’s founder, Ala-ud-din, buried the heads of infidels in the foundation of the fort. Siri derives its name from the Hindi word for ‘head’. After Siri came Tughlaqabad, whose existence came to a sudden end when the Sultan of Delhi, Muhammad Tughlaq, got so angry about a perceived insult from residents, he destroyed the city. The cities of Jahanpanah and Ferozebad followed in quick succession. Delhi’s centre of gravity began to move northwards. In the 1500s Dinpanah was constructed by Humayun, whose wonderful tomb (1564-1573) graces Hazrat Nizamuddin. Shahjahanabad, known today as Old Delhi, followed, becoming one of the richest and most populous cities in the world. The Persian emperor Nadir Shah invaded, killing as many as 120,000 residents in a single bloody night and stealing the Kohinoor Diamond (now part of the British royal family’s crown jewels).

The next destroyers of Delhi were the British, who ransacked the city in the wake of the Great Uprising/Mutiny of 1857. The resulting bloodbath left bodies piled so high that the victors’ horses had to tread on them. For the next 50 years, while the port cities of Calcutta and Bombay thrived under the British, Delhi languished. Then, in 1911, King George, on a visit to India, announced that a new city should be built next to what remained of Delhi, and that this would be the new capital of India. The British architect Edwin Lutyens was brought in to design the city. You could argue that the building hasn’t stopped since …

The central part of New Delhi is an example of Britain’s imperial pretensions. The government may have been rather more reticent about moving India’s capital, if it had known that in less than 36 years time, the British would no longer be ruling India. Delhi’s population swelled after the violence of partition, with refugees flooding to the city. In 10 years the population of Delhi doubled, and many well-known housing colonies were built during this period.

The economic boom that began in the 1990s has lead to an explosion of construction and soaring real estate prices. Delhi is voraciously eating into the surrounding countryside. It is a city changing at such breakneck speed that shops, homes and even airports seem to appear and disappear almost overnight. Go now and witness the changes as they happen.

Best time to visit

October-March are the best months, but December and January can get quite cold and foggy at night; pollution can affect asthma sufferers. Monsoon lasts from the end of June to mid-September. May and June are very hot and dry.

For exact dates consult the weekly Delhi Diary available at hotels and many shops and offices around town.

Muslim festivals of Ramadan, Id-ul-Fitr, Id-ul-Zuha and Muharram are celebrated according to the lunar calendar.

Getting around

The new Metro, though still by no means complete, offers a realistic alternative for navigating select parts of the city: it’s now possible to get from Connaught Place to Old Delhi in a cool five minutes. For the rest of the city, which is far too spread out to walk, auto-rickshaws and taxis are widely available, though few are prepared to use their meters, especially for foreigners. It’s best to use pre-paid stands at stations, airport terminals and at the junction of Radial Road 1 and Connaught Place if possible, otherwise be sure to agree a fare before you get in. The same applies to cycle rickshaws, which ply the streets of Old Delhi. City buses are usually packed and have long queues. Be on your guard from thieves around New Delhi Station. State Entry Road runs from the southern end of Platform 1 to Connaught Place. This is a hassle-free alternative to the main Chelmsford Road during the day (gate closed at night). Fleets of Radio Taxis are the newest additions to the city’s transport options. These include: Mega Cabs, T011- 4141 4141; Delhi Cab, T011-4433 3222; Easy Cab, T011-4343 4343; Quick Cab, T011- 4533 3333.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Delhi is served by Indira Gandhi International (IGI) Airport, which handles both international and domestic traffic. The Domestic Terminal 1, 15 km from the centre, handles flights from two separate sections: ‘A’, exclusively for Indian Airlines and ‘B’ for others. The International Terminal 2 is 23 km from the centre. During the day, it can take 30-45 minutes from the Domestic Terminal and 45 minutes to an hour from the International Terminal to get to the centre. A free shuttle runs between the terminals. To get to town take a pre-paid taxi or an airport coach or ask your hotel to collect you.

The Inter State Bus Terminus (ISBT) is at Kashmere Gate, near the Red Fort, about 30 minutes by bus from Connaught Place. Local buses connect it to the other ISBTs.

There are three main railway stations. The busy New Delhi Station, a 10-minute walk north of Connaught Place, can be maddeningly chaotic; you need to have all your wits about you. The quieter Hazrat Nizamuddin (which has some south-bound trains) is 5 km southeast of Connaught Place. The overpoweringly crowded Old Delhi Station (2 km north of Connaught Place) has a few important trains.

Orientation

The Red Fort and Jama Masjid are the focal point of Old Delhi, 2 km northeast of Connaught Place. Chandni Chowk, the main commercial area, heads west from the fort. Around this area are narrow lanes packed to the rafters with all different types of wares for sale. To the southeast are New Delhi Railway Station and the main backpackers’ area, Paharganj, with Connaught Place, the notional ‘centre’ of New Delhi, about 1 km south. Running due south of Connaught Place is Janpath with small shops selling craft products, and hotels like the Imperial. Janpath is intersected by Rajpath with all the major state buildings at its western end. Immediately south is the diplomatic enclave, Chanakyapuri. Most of the upmarket hotels are scattered across the wide area between Connaught Place and the airport to the southwest. As Delhi’s centre of gravity has shifted southwards, a series of new markets has grown up to serve extensive housing colonies such as South Extension, Greater Kailash and Safdarjang Enclave. This development has brought one of the major historic sites, the Qutb Minar, within the limits of the city, about half an hour by taxi south of Connaught Place.

Banks

Open Mon-Fri 1000-1400, Sat 1000-1200. It is usually quicker to change foreign cash and TCs at hotels. ATMs for International Visa/ Plus/Cirrus/Maestro card-holders at HDFC, HSBC, Standard Chartered, UTI, State Bank of India, ICICI and Citibank all over Delhi. Foreign banks and money changers include: American Express, A-Block Connaught Pl, excellent; small branch in Paharganj; Standard Chartered Grindlays, 15 K Gandhi Marg; Thomas Cook, Hotel Imperial, Janpath; New Delhi Railway station (24 hrs). Indian banks (dealing in foreign exchange) open 24 hrs: Central Bank of India, Ashok Hotel, State Bank of India, Palam Airport. Swift transfers from overseas through Western Union, SITA, F-12, Connaught Pl.

Embassies and consulates

Most are in the diplomatic enclave/ Chanakyapuri. Australia, 1/50-G Shantipath, T011-4139 9900. Canada, 7-8 Shantipath, T011-4178 2000. France, 2/50-€ Shantipath, T011-2419 6100. Ireland, 230 Jor Bagh, T011-2462 6733. Netherlands, 6/50F Shantipath, T011-2419 7600. New Zealand, 50-N Nyaya Marg, T011- 688 3170. South Africa, B/18 Vasant Marg, T011-2614 4911. UK, Shantipath, T011-2419 2100. USA, Shantipath, T011-2419 8000.

Medical services

Ambulance (24 hrs): T102. Hospitals : Embassies and high commissions have lists of recommended doctors and dentists. Doctors approved by IAMAT (International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers) are listed in a directory. Casualty and emergency wards in both private and government hospitals are open 24 hrs. Ram Manohar Lohia, Willingdon Crescent, T011-2336 5525, 24-hr A&€. Bara Hindu Rao, Sabzi Mandi, T011-2391 9476. JP Narayan, J Nehru Marg, Delhi Gate, T011-2323 2400. Safdarjang General, Sri Aurobindo Marg, T011-2616 5060. S Kripalani, Panchkuin Rd, T011-2336 3728. Chemists: Many hospitals have 24-hr services: Hindu Rao Hospital, Sabzi Mandi; Ram Manohar Lohia Hospital, Willingdon Crescent; S Kripalani Hospital, Panchkuin Rd. In Connaught Pl: Nath Brothers, G-2, off Marina Arcade; Chemico, H-45.

Post

Stamps are often available from the reception in the larger hotels. Speedpost from 36 centres. Head post offices at Sansad Marg, Mon-Sat 1000-1830, Eastern Court, Janpath, 24 hrs, Connaught Pl, A-Block, Mon-Sat 1000-1700 (parcel packing service outside). New Delhi GPO at Ashoka Place, southwest of Connaught Pl, 24 hrs, poste restante available; make sure senders specify ‘New Delhi 110001’; collect from the counter behind sorting office, Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 0900-1300. Take your passport.

Useful contacts

Fire: T101. Foreigners’ Registration Office: East Block-VIII, Level 2, Sector 1, RK Puram, T011-2671 1443. Police: T100.