Dubrovnik travel guide

Background

The city was founded in the early seventh century, when the nearby Greco-Roman Epidaurum (present-day Cavtat) was overrun by tribes of Avars and Slavs. Refugees fled north and took refuge on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. In the years that followed, the Slavs founded a separate settlement on the mainland hillside opposite the island, and called it Dubrovnik (from dubrava meaning ‘oak woods’). In the 12th century the narrow channel separating Ragusa and Dubrovnik was filled in, and the two settlements became one, which was known as Ragusa until 1918.

For 450 years (1358-1808), Ragusa was a powerful independent republic, which kept its freedom by paying off potential rulers: first the Hungarian king, then, after the defeat of Hungary by the Turks at the Battle of Mohacs in 1526, the Ottoman Sultan. It owed its wealth to shipping, becoming the main outlet for silver, lead, wool and leather from the hinterland regions of Bosnia and Serbia, and carrying grain, spices, cotton and salt from Epirus (present-day northwest Greece), Syria and Egypt to Sicily, France and Spain.

As prosperity grew, so did the republic’s territory, and by the late 15th century it boasted approximately 120 km of mainland coast, extending from Neum in the north to the Bay of Kotor (in present-day Montenegro) to the south. Its possessions included the island of Lastovo (as of 1252), the Pelješac Peninsula (1333) and the island of Mljet (1345). It also took the islands of Korčula, Brač and Hvar in 1414, but was forced to release them to its arch-rival, Venice, in 1417.

The republic was remarkably sophisticated for its time: the first pharmacy opened in 1317; an old people’s home was founded in 1347; slave trading was abolished in 1418; and an orphanage for abandoned and illegitimate babies opened in 1432.

The chief citizen was the rector, who had to be over 50, and was elected for only a month at a time after which he could not stand for re-election for at least two years. His role was primarily symbolic, while power was held by the Grand Council (made up exclusively of members of the local nobility) and the Senate (a consultative body made up of 45 invited members over the age of 40). The Archbishop of Dubrovnik had to be a foreigner (usually an Italian), a law intended to keep politics and religion apart. Senior officers in the army and navy were members of the nobility, while the increasingly prosperous middle class were traders.

Ragusa’s strength lay not in its military power, but in its diplomatic cunning. The republic remained neutral throughout the ongoing international conflicts between Christians and Muslims, and by the Pope’s consent was permitted to continue trade with the Levant.

By the 16th century, Ragusa had entered its Golden Age: it had one of the world’s greatest merchant fleets, with over 180 ships and 4000 sailors voyaging back and forth across the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, and consulates in over 50 foreign ports including Naples, Malta, Lisbon, Corfu, Constantinople, Tunis and Alexandria. During this period, inspired by the Italian Renaissance, the republic became the birthplace of Croatian literature, lead by local writers such as the dramatist Marin Držić (1508-1567) and the poet Ivan Gundulić (1589-1638).

In 1667, the city was hit by a severe earthquake, killing an estimated 5000 inhabitants and levelling most of the splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings. The city walls survived the disaster and the basic urban layout remained; new buildings were erected in a rather more sober baroque style.

French troops entered the city in 1806, and in 1808 the republic lost its independence and was incorporated into Napoleon’s Illyrian Provinces. In 1918 it officially became known as Dubrovnik. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city developed into a well-known and much-loved tourist destination. Today it is a new mecca for the rich and famous, with recent visitors including Catherine Zeta Jones and Michael Douglas. In 2007, 4.5 million people visited Dubrovnik.

Best time to visit

Dubrovnik is undoubtedly at its most animated between mid-July and mid-August when the Summer Festival is in full-swing: troupes of actors and musicians from all parts of the world arrive in town, along with a plethora of holidaymakers and cultural visitors – all great fun but it does get horribly busy and prices escalate out of all proportion. The city’s churches and museums are open the year through, and during winter – when you can expect clear blue skies, mellow sunshine and an icy bite to the air – Dubrovnik can be quite enchanting. However, if you’re looking to avoid the worst of the crowds but still have the possibility of sunbathing and a swim, try to visit in June or October.

Getting around

Dubrovnik’s main sights are concentrated in the pedestrian old town, within the medieval fortifications and can easily be seen by foot. There are now two hotels inside the walls, plus several very upmarket establishments within easy walking distance of the old town, on the coastal road east of the centre. The larger, renovated, socialist-era hotels are found on Lapad Peninsula, 3 km west from the centre, and can be reached by buses No 1 and No 8 (both of which run from Pile Gate to Gruž Harbour) disembarking at Stanica Lapad.

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Air

Dubrovnik Airport, T020-773377 (information), T020-773328 (lost and found), http://www.airport-dubrovnik.hr. Airport bus service (operated by Atlas) T020-442222.

Through summer, there are regular international flights to and from Amsterdam, Bari Berlin, Bologna Brussels, Catania, Copenhagen, Dusseldorf, Frankfurt, Genoa, Glasgow, Gothenburg, Hamburg, Helsinki, Istanbul, Lisbon, London (Gatwick and Heathrow), Lyon, Manchester, Munich, Nottingham, Oslo, Palermo, Paris, Prague, Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Warsaw, Vienna and Zurich. Internal flights link Dubrovnik with Osijek, Pula, Split and Zagreb. The number of destinations and the frequency of flights are reduced in winter.

Airlines offices

Croatia Airlines, Brsalje 9, T020-413776/7, http://www.croatiaairlines.hr.

Bus

For all information about buses to and from Dubrovnik, T060-305070. Left luggage costs 20Kn per item, open 0600-2100.

Internal services include 6 buses daily to Zagreb (10½ hrs); 12 buses to Split in Central Dalmatia (about 4 hrs); 5 buses daily to Rijeka in Kvarner (about 12 hrs); and 1 bus to Pula in Istria (about 14 hrs). There are also a daily buses to Kotor and Budva (Montenegro), Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzegovina) and Trieste (Italy). Buses depart 3 times a week for Frankfurt (Germany).

Car

Best Buy Rent is in the city centre at V Nazora 9, T020-422043; Budget, T020-773290, is at the airport, www.budget. hr, and in the city centre at Obala Stjepana Radica 24, T020-418998; Hertz, www.hertz. hr, is at the airport, T020-771568, and in the city centre at F Supila 9, T020-425000; Mack, www.mack- concord.hr, is in the city centre at F Supila 3, T020-423747; Milenium Rent, http://www.milenium-rent.com, is on Lapad Peninsula at Put Iva Vojnovića 5, T020-333176.

Ferry

Jadrolinija, Stjepana Radića 40, T020-418000, run a twice-weekly overnight coastal service between Rijeka and Dubrovnik, stopping at Split, Stari Grad (island of Hvar), Korčula and Sobra (island of Mljet) en route. Total journey time approximately 20 hrs. Jadrolinija also run daily ferry services connecting Dubrovnik to the islands of Koločep, Lopud and Šipan, departing 3 times daily Mon-Sat and twice daily Sun, and connecting Dubrovnik to Sobra on the island of Mljet, departing twice daily through summer and once daily in winter (1 hr 50 mins). The island of Mljet is also served from Dubrovnik by a daily high-speed catamaran, Nona Ana, tickets available from Atlantagent (Stjepana Radića 26, T020- 313355). In high season, Nona Ana continues from Mljet to Korčula (Mon and Sat only) and from Mljet to Lastovo (Tue and Thu only). In addition, Nova (Sv. Križa 3, T020-313599) run high-speed boats between Dubrovnik to Cavtat, and Dubrovnik and the Elafiti islands (Koločep, Lopud and Šipan), foot passengers only, operating Jun-Sep.

Jadrolinija run a ferry to Bari (Italy), departing 2 times per week throughout the summer, but just once a week through winter (8 hrs). The Italian company Azzurra Line, T020-313178, http://www.azzurraline.com, operate a similar service, Bari-Dubrovnik, Jun-Sep.

Taxi

The main taxi ranks are just outside the town gates of Pile and Ploče, at Gruž Harbour and at the bus station. Radio Taxi Dubrovnik, T970.

Train

As there is no railway line south of Split, Dubrovnik is not connected to the rest of the country by train.

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Banks

There are banks with ATMs on the Placa, and close to the bus station and ferry port, and inside the airport.

Consulates

Netherlands, Od Svetog Mihalja 1, T020-356141; UK, Buničeva Poljana 3, T020- 324597.

Emergencies

Ambulance 94; Fire 93; Police 92.

Internet

Dubrovnik Internet Club, Dr Ante Starčevića 7, T020-416703; Netcafe, Prijeko 21, in the old town, T020- 321025.

Medical services

General Hospital, Roka Mišetića bb, T020-431777 (24-hr casualty). Pharmacies: marked by a glowing green cross; Gruž at Gruška obala (T020- 418990) and Kod Zvonika on Stradun (T020-321133)

alternate as 24-hr pharmacies.

Post offices

The main post office is at Put Republike 32, close to the bus station, Mon-Fri 0800-2100. The most central post offices are at Široka 8, in the old town, Mon-Fri 0800-1500, and Dr Ante Starčevića 2, just outside the city walls, opposite Pile Gate, Mon-Fri 0800-1500.

Telephones

It is possible to make calls from either of the above post offices, or from the blue public phone kiosks dotted round town.