Introduction
The southernmost region of Croatia, South Dalmatia is a long, thin, coastal strip backed by the dramatic Dinaric Alps, which form the natural border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. Urban life centres on the former city-republic of Dubrovnik, an architect’s dream contained within ancient defensive walls, facing out to sea and packed with baroque churches, elegant 17th-century town houses, well-stocked museums and open-air cafés.
A two-hour ferry ride west of the city lies the island of Mljet, one third of which is a national park, where indigenous pine forests cover the steep slopes before reaching two inter- connected saltwater lakes, one home to an island capped by a 12th-century monastery. Most visitors arrive as part of an organized day trip, so if you decide to stay the night you'll have the place (almost) to yourself. Be sure to try the lobster – Mljet's culinary specialty.
Further west still, Lastovo is one of Croatia's most remote and least visited islands, where you can escape the crowds, wallow in unspoilt nature and listen to the locals' bizarre and amusing tales of the island's history.
The region's most visited island is Korčula, with Korčula Town (often described as a smaller version of Dubrovnik) renowned for its fine cathedral and regular evening performances of the medieval Moreška sword dance.
The neighbouring village of Lumbarda is backed by the Grk vineyards, which in turn are criss-crossed by a network of narrow lanes: pick the right route and you’ll arrive on a blissful south-facing sand beach. The easiest way to reach Korčula from Dubrovnik is to travel the length of the mountainous Pelješac Peninisula by bus. If you have time to spare, jump off at one of several roadside wine cellars, where you can sample the locally produced reds, Dingač and Pelješac, regarded by many as Croatia’s most sophisticated wines.