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Zagreb travel guide

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Zagreb

With most holidaymakers heading straight for the sea and sunshine of the coast, the Mitteleuropean-style capital, Zagreb, is often overlooked as a tourist destination. However, as Croatia’s economic and administrative centre, and home to one in four Croats (including most of the country’s politicians, businessmen and intellectuals), it’s certainly worth devoting a few days to if you want to understand what (or who) makes the nation tick.

The city centre is composed of two main areas, the hilltop Gornji Grad (Upper Town) and the lower-lying Donji Grad (Lower Town), which meet at Trg Bana Jelačića, the main square. Medieval Gornji Grad, home to the cathedral and the Croatian Parliament, is reminiscent of old Prague, thanks to its romantic winding cobbled streets, red-tiled rooftops and church spires. In contrast, Donji Grad, where you’ll find the museums, the National Theatre and the university, was laid out on a strict grid system during the 19th century and is made up of grandiose Hapsburgian buildings interspersed between a series of green squares linked by tree-lined boulevards. Beyond the city centre lie the standard suburbs of high-rise apartment blocks, constructed during the latter half of the 20th century.

Apart from peeling paint here and there, most of the buildings still manage to carry off their proud Austro-Hungarian image pretty well. Unfortunately, high living costs, low wages and mass unemployment are still a harsh reality for the people who live here, but as a visitor you can spend a pleasant enough few days exploring the city’s museums (many of which are closed on Mondays but now stay open late on Thursday evenings), parks and churches.

Zagreb travel guide last edited by tripwolf

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