The Costa del Sol is a curious mix of paradise and hell, a stretch of ribbon-developed coast where sun-blessed retirees rub shoulders with corrupt mayors and mafiosos looking for the next dodgy property deal. To impoverished Franco-era Spain the influx of tourists was a blessing; now, with competition from other holiday destinations in the Mediterranean and Caribbean, the concrete jungles can seem more of a curse, and the lack of foresight in approval of developments, not to mention the bribes taken to approve them, is staggering.
Nevertheless, despite the timeshares and the crimes against architecture, it remains a good-time zone. Spain’s increased wealth has meant that facilities have improved, and it’s not just a spot for cheap beer and a lobster tan. The ever-increasing numbers of ‘residential tourists’, generally middle-aged northern Europeans looking to live out their retirement years with a bit of decent sunshine has boosted the local economy and meant that the seaside towns aren’t so reliant on the whims of the sun-seeking package tourist. While not even the Costa del Sol’s biggest fan could describe the beaches as anything more than gritty, nor the cultural attractions anything more than token, the climate remains exceptional, and the ambience cheery. Still, it can seem like the least Spanish of places, with northern European languages dominant.
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