Jaén travel guide

Background

Jaén was probably originally an Iberian settlement, but the first major town here was built by the Romans, who were attracted by local deposits of silver. They named it Aurigi, and it was here, legend has it, that Christianity was introduced to the peninsula by Euphrasius. The Moors took the city in AD 712, calling it Jayyan. It was strategically important, located near the crucial Despeñaperros pass, and was known as the Iron Door of Al-Andalus. The Moorish armies under Mohammed II al-Nasir stopped here en route to the disastrous battle at Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212. Jaén came under the control of the Nasrid kingdom of Granada before being ceded to Fernando III in 1246 after a tough siege, after which time it played a key role in the final stages of the reconquest. As in many parts of Andalucía, decline set in, and there was large-scale emigration from the province; a trend that continued right through the 20th century. Today, Jaén is one of the poorest of Andalucía’s cities, with chronic unemployment both in town and in the surrounding area. Jaén is also known for its Lagarto, a lizard that terrorized the city in ancient times and whose skin is said to be displayed in the church of San Ildefonso.

Getting there and around

Jaén is well connected by bus with other cities in Andalucía and is also the closest Andalucían city to Madrid. A few trains also service the town. The nearest airport is Granada. Jaén is compact and easily negotiable on foot. Drivers will find that parking in the old town is difficult, but there are underground car parks.

Bus

Jaén’s bus station is a 5- to 10-min walk from the centre, on Plaza Coca de la Pinera, just off Av de Madrid (T953-250106). Timetables are posted on the internet at http://www.epassa.es. Within the province, there are regular services to most towns on weekdays, but far fewer at weekends. 15 weekday buses (9 at weekends) go to Ubeda (1 hr; €4.50) via Baeza (40 mins; €3.50), and there are 3 daily departures for Cazorla (2½ hrs, €7.50).

Other Andalucían destinations include Granada 14 times daily (1 hr 15 mins, €7.53), Córdoba 8 times daily (5 at weekends, 2 hrs), Sevilla 3-4 times daily (4 hrs), Algeciras and Almería (3 hrs 30 mins-4 hrs) both twice daily, Cádiz twice daily (1 at weekends, 5 hrs 45 mins), Málaga 4 times daily (3 hrs 15 mins).

Further afield, there are 2 daily departures to Barcelona and 6-7 to Madrid (5 hrs).

Taxi

There are plenty of ranks or call T953-222222.

Train

Jaén’s train station, T953-270202, is 1 km north of the centre; just follow Paseo de la Estación downhill from Plaza de la Constitución. There are 3-4 daily trains to Madrid (4 hrs 15 mins, €23.20), and 4 to Córdoba (1 hr 30 mins, €8.85), 3 of which continue to Sevilla (2 hrs 55 mins, €17.10). These trains also stop at Andújar (40 mins). Note although there’s a station called Linares-Baeza, it’s actually several kilometres from Baeza; you’re better off getting the bus.

Internet and telephone

There are several cheap call centres offering internet access along C Hurtado and its continuation Teodoro Calvache, including Almodena, at C Hurtado 18, who charge €1/hr. Cu@k, C Adarves Bajos 24, €1.50/hr, is another.

Medical services

Hospital Ciudad de Jaén, Av Ejército Español s/n, T953-222408. For an ambulance call 061 or T953-251434 For non-emergencies, the Centro de Salud Virgen de la Capilla, C Arquitecto Berges 10.

Post office

Plaza de los Jardinillos s/n, T953-191112.