Martos and Alcaudete travel guide

Twenty four kilometres west of Jaén, the town of Martos surfs a sea and aroma of olive trees. Though its lower town is workaday, Martos boasts two castles, one at the top of the town, and one, rather ruinous, improbably perched atop the 1000 m hill, La Peña, that looms over the settlement; the views from up here (partway by road then a path to the summit) are phenomenal. The main settlement was once up there, but people moved downhill to save their legs in times of peace after the reconquest. It was from there that the Carvajal brothers were thrown to their deaths ; you can see their tombstone in the late Gothic church of Santa Marta. Also in the old town is the church of Santa María, begun in the 13th century but mostly Renaissance in style, and several towers and noble mansions.

Continuing south through the steadily growing hills, you are surrounded only by olive trees and the largest of skies. The village of Alcaudete has another Moorish castle, which rises spectacularly over the town; the keep and part of the walls are preserved. Below, in the village, which was once an important Visigothic town, the attractive church has a square bell tower with pointed roof and a striking marble portal in Plateresque style. Alcaudete is famous for production of marzipan and other festive sweetmeats.

Martos (28 km) and Alcaudete (55 km) are connected to Jaén via a 55km vía verde, a former railway converted to an attractive, if hot, walking and cycling route.