Vitoria-Gasteiz travel guide

Background

Vitoria’s shield-shaped old town sits on the high ground that perhaps gave the city its name (beturia is an Euskara word for hill). After being a Basque settlement first, then a Roman one, Vitoria was abandoned until it was refounded and fortified by the kings of Navarra in the 12th and 13th centuries. An obscure Castilian town for much of its history, Vitoria featured in the Peninsular War, when, on midsummer’s day in 1813, Napoleon’s forces were routed by the Allied troops and fled in ragged fashion towards home, abandoning their baggage train containing millions of francs, which was gleefully looted. “The battle was to the French”, commented a British officer sagely, “like salt on a leech’s tail”. Vitoria has thrived since being named capital of the semi-autonomous Basque region, and has a genteel, comfortable air, enlivened by an active student population.

Getting around

Vitoria is a good two-wheel city with more planned cycle ways and green spots than in busier Bilbao. There’s a new tram line, but Vitoria is easily walkable with Calle Dato the focus of the evening Paseo.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Vitoria bus station is just east of town on Calle Los Herrán. There are frequent connections with Bilbao and other Basque destinations. Vitoria’s RENFE station is south of the centre at Calle Eduardo Dato and has better connections with the rest of Spain than does Bilbao.

Internet and telephone

Locutorio Tito, C Correría 44, and Meknasi, C Fueros 7, have cheap internet and phone calls.