Artajona travel guide

Some 11 km northwest of Tafalla, Artajona’s stunningly well-preserved walls are on a huge scale, and speak of a pride and resolve little related to the size of the village. Artajona claims to be the only place in the world whose bells are rung upside down. On fiestas, a team of campañeros gathers to push the four bells in a steady rhythm until they begin swinging right around. It requires a fair bit of strength and timing: the two heaviest bells each weigh over a ton.

Around Artajona are several dolmens, as well as the excavated Iron Age settlement of Las Eretas T948 364 247, currently accessible daily due to ongoing archaeological work but phone to check; free, which consists of several houses and burials; some bits have been reproduced, and it’s not badly done.