There are some good wild beaches west of here. The town of Corme is reached via a side road, and sits on a nice bay used to cultivate shellfish. The port is backed by narrow streets tightly packed with the houses of fishing families. Bypass the town beach and head for Praia Ermida, 1 km or so further around the bay. The town doesn’t give too much away; it was known as a nest of anti-Franco guerrilla activity during the Civil War, and anybody prying into the coming and going of boats in the middle of the night these days might end up sleeping with the shellfish. Suffice it to say that most of Europe’s cocaine arrives through Galicia. Over two thousand kilos of the stuff were captured in one of the higher-profile police raids in 2006. A more traditional maritime harvest is the percebe, or goose-necked barnacle; the perceberos who collect them have a perilous job, but it’s a much-appreciated Galician speciality.
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