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Aguilar de Campoo

A number of gateways remain from the old walls; that on Calle Barrio y Mier has a Hebrew inscription, a legacy of the once substantial Jewish population, while the one behind the church is topped by griffins.

Worth looking at is the Romanesque Ermita de Santa Cecilia, a chapel with a leaning tower below the castle. You’ll have to get the key from the priest’s house (the tourist office will direct you). The interior is simple; the highlight is a superb capital showing the Innocents being put to the sword by chainmailed soldiers. Above, up a path, little remains of the castle but its walls; the view is good, but the town looks better from lower angles.

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