Valladolid travel guide

Background

A site of pre-Roman settlements, Valladolid’s profile grew with the Reconquista; it was well placed on the frontline to become an important commercial centre, driven in part by the Castilian wool trade. Although Fernando and Isabel married here in 1469 – a secret ceremony that profoundly changed the course of world history – it was in the 16th century that Valladolid became pre-eminent among Spanish cities. With a population of nearly 40,000, it was a massive place in a hitherto fragmented land, and de-facto capital of Spain; while the court was constantly on the move, the bureaucracy was based here. It was, as it is now, a city of administrators and lawyers: “courtiers died here waiting for their cases to come up” (JH Elliott, Imperial Spain).

Valladolid played an important part in most significant Spanish historical events, and was home for periods to people as diverse as Columbus, Cervantes and the inquisitor Torquemada. It was a major centre of the Spanish Inquisition ; auto de fe’s and burnings were a regular sight in the plaza.

In the year 1550-1551, a significant and famous theological debate took place here between the liberal theologian Bartolomé de las Casas and the historian and philosopher Juan Ginés de Sepúlveda. The former was arguing for an end to indigenous slavery and forced conversions in Spain’s American colonies, while the latter deemed the indígenos inferior, being incapable of reason and therefore without rights. Las Casas’ view prevailed, effectively ending the doctrine of racial purity in the colonies. Las Casas was hardly an enlightened humanist, though; he suggested the labour problem be solved by enslaving Africans instead.

Felipe II was born in Valladolid, but surprisingly chose Madrid as his capital in 1561. The city lost importance after that, but had a brief reprise. A scheming adviser of Felipe III wanted to keep him away from the powerful influence of his grandmother, and persuaded him to move the capital northwards in 1601. The glory years were back, but only for five years, after which the court moved back to Madrid. Valladolid remained fairly prosperous until the collapse of the wool and grain markets, but enjoyed renewed wealth in the early part of the 20th century. The Falange held their first national meeting here in March 1934 and when war broke out Valladolid became an important and brutal Fascist stronghold; it is estimated that over 9000 Republican civilians were shot here behind the lines.

One of Spain’s most important post Civil War writers, Miguel Delibes, is a vallisoletano. His work deeply reflects the Castilian landscape but is also often bitingly anti-Francoist; much of his journalistic life was spent battling the censors while working for the liberal El Norte de Castilla, the regional paper. The Hedge is perhaps his best-known translated work; a vicious satire on totalitarian Spain.

W In 1558, two members of the aristocracy turned up in Valladolid in the royal litter: the king’s cat and parrot, sent back to be cared for in the city by their loving owner Carlos V, who had just died at his monastery retreat of Yuste.

Getting around

Situated on the east bank of the Pisuerga, Valladolid’s old centre is fairly compact. At the southern end of this part, the large park of Campo Grande is flanked by two long avenues, Paseo de Zorilla, the main artery of the new town, and the mostly pedestrianized Acera de Recoletos. Nearly everything of interest is within an easy walk of the Plaza Mayor.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Many visitors to Northern Spain arrive in Valladolid; there’s a Ryanair connection to the city from London Stansted as well as Brussels Charleroi and Milan Bergamo. Valladolid is a major transport hub, only two hours from Madrid by road, and less by the new fast trains. As the capital of Castilla y León, it has excellent connections within that region, as well as with the rest of Northern Spain. The bus and train stations are close together, about a 10-minute walk south of the centre. They can be reached by local buses Nos 2 and 10 from Plaza de España, or No 19 from Plaza Zorilla.

Valladolid

Air

Valladolid’s airport (VLL), T983 415 500, is 12 km northwest of town. Linecar buses run between the bus station and the airport to connect with flights (20 mins, €3). ALSA (http://www.alsa.es) buses running between Valladolid and León will stop here if you have pre-booked the ticket. A taxi from Valladolid to the airport costs €16.

As well as Ryanair flights to London Stansted, Milan Orio al Serio, and Brussels Charleroi, there are international connections to Paris and Lisbon, as well as domestic ones to Barcelona and Málaga.

Bus

Intercity buses go from Valladolid to nearly every major city in Spain. These services include: Madrid hourly (2¼ hrs, €12.67), León 8-9 daily (2 hrs, €8.67), Barcelona 2 daily (10½ hrs, €41-44), Segovia 7-12 daily (1 hr 50 mins), Zamora 7-10 daily, Palencia hourly, Bilbao 3 daily (4 hrs, €18.24), Santander 2 daily (4 hrs, €11.33) and Zaragoza (5 hrs) via Soria (2¾ hrs) 2 daily.

Other destinations include Aranda (5 daily), Roa (2 daily), Medina del Campo (8 daily), Rueda (7 daily), Medina de Rioseco hourly (30 mins), Simancas half-hourly, Tordesillas hourly.

Car hire

There are a few car hire agencies at Valladolid airport; AVIS, T983 415 530, http://www.avis.com; Europcar, T983 560 091, http://www.europcar.com; Hertz, T983 415 546, http://www.hertz.com.

Taxi

T983 207 755.

Train

Services run to Madrid 12-15 daily (slow trains 2½ hrs, €15.40, fast trains 1 hr, €33.10) via Medina del Campo very regularly, to Palencia more than hourly (35 mins, from €3.85), and less frequently to most mainline destinations.

Internet

Cartablanca, C de Colón 2, is an option in the university district; Cibercafé, Paseo de Zorilla 46, has several coin-op terminals in a stuffy café, €2.50/hr; Esferacom, C Ruiz Hernández 3, also a locutorio, and fast internet connection.

Laundry

There’s a lavandería on C Embajadores in the barrio of Las Delicias, a trek away on the other side of the railway line in the south of town. Bus No 6 will take you there from C Vicente Moliner, near the Plaza Mayor.

Medical services

Hospital Universitario

, T983 420 000, emergency T112.

Police

T092 in an emergency.

Post office

The main post office is on Plaza de la Rinconada near the Plaza Mayor.