Among strong competition, Salamanca’s main square stands out as the most harmonious plaza in Spain. Built in the 18th century by Alberto Churriguera, it has nothing of the occasional gaudiness of the style to which he and his brother unwittingly lent their names. Paying over the odds for a coffee or a vermouth at one of its outdoor tables is still a superb option; there can be fewer nicer places to sit, especially on a warm summer’s evening with storks circling above. Around the perimeter are medallions bearing the heads of various illustrious Spaniards; the more recent additions include Franco (often defaced by paint) and King Juan Carlos, and there are plenty of blank ones for new notables.
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