León travel guide

Background

León was founded as a Roman fortress in AD 68 to protect the road that transported the gold from the mines in El Bierzo to the west. It became the base of the Legio Septima, the seventh legion of Imperial Rome; this is where the name originates (although León means ‘lion’ in Spanish). The city was Christianized in the third century and is one of the oldest bishoprics in western Europe. After being reconquered in the mid-eighth century, León became the official residence of the Asturian royal line in the early 10th century; the royals were thereafter known as kings of León. The city was recaptured and sacked several times by the Moors until it was retaken for the final time by Alfonso V in 1002. León then enjoyed a period of power and glory as the centre of Reconquista pride and prestige; the city flourished on protection paid from the fragmented taifa states.

In 1188 there was a meeting of nobles and ecclesiasts that set the pattern for what was later to become the system of cortes, regional quasi-parliaments that kept Spanish kings on a tight leash. As the Reconquista moved further south, however, León found itself increasingly put in the shade by the young whippersnapper Castilla, which had seceded from it in the 10th century.

In 1230 the crowns were united, and León is still bound to Castilla to this day, a fact bemoaned by many – spraycans are often taken to the castles on the coat of arms of the region, leaving only the Leonese lion. When the Flemish Habsburg Carlos V took the throne of Spain, León feared further isolation and became one of the prime movers in the comunero rebellion. One of the most extreme of the comuneros was a Leonese named Gonzalo de Guzmán, who declared a “war of fire, sack and blood” on the aristocracy. The rebellion was heavily put down, and León languished for centuries.

The region’s coal provided some prosperity in the 19th century, but it has really only been relatively recently that the city has lifted itself from stagnating regional market- town to what it is today; a relatively modern and dynamic Spanish city.

Best time to visit

Like Burgos, León’s high altitude results in freezing winters and roasting summers; spring and autumn are good times to visit, as there’s little rain.

Getting there and around

León’s bus and RENFE train stations are close to each other just across the river from the new town, a 10-minute walk from the old town.

Bus

Local

Within the province, Astorga (30-45 mins) is served hourly, Sahagún 2-3 times daily (1 hr), Riaño 3 times daily (1 hr 45 mins) Ponferrada hourly (1-2 hrs, €7.90), and Villafranca del Bierzo 3 times daily (2 hrs 30 mins, €9.15).

Long distance

There are 10 to 12 daily departures for Madrid (3½ hrs, €21.42), 8 to Valladolid (2 hrs, stops at Valladolid airport on request, €8.75), a similar number north to Oviedo (1 hr 30 mins, €8.30) and Gijón, 5-7 to Zamora (2 hrs) via Benavente, 2 to Salamanca (3 hrs), 4 to Burgos (2 hrs, €13.74), 1 to Palencia, and 3 into Galicia.

Train

From the RENFE station, trains run to Madrid 8 times a day (2¾-4½ hrs, from €26-42), north to Oviedo (2 hrs, €15.20) and Gijón 7 times, east to Barcelona 3 times daily (10-11 hrs) via Palencia, Burgos, Logroño, Vitoria, Pamplona and Zaragoza, and 2 daily westwards to A Coruña and Santiago.

A dozen trains run east to Sahagún, and several daily go west to Astorga and Ponferrada.

The FEVE station is on Av Padre Isla, northwest of the centre. The line runs to Bilbao; it’s a scenic but slow journey via every village (1 daily, 7 hrs 15 mins, €19.75). The luxury train service, Transcantábrico, follows this route and onwards to Santiago. Leaving on Sat from Easter to Sep, it takes a week, with numerous stops for gourmet meals, or to be bussed off to various attractions.

Internet

Locutório La Rúa, C Varillas 3, T987 230 106, provides internet access and reasonably priced phone calls.

Laundry

La Paloma, C Paloma 6, near the cathedral.

Medical services

Hospital Virgen Blanca, C Altos de Nava, T987 237 400. Call 112 in an emergency.

Police

Paseo del Parque s/n, T987 255 500.

Post office

The main post office is on Plaza de San Francisco and open from Mon-Fri 0800-2000 and Sat 1000-1400.