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Castro Urdiales

The waterfront is attractive and long; at its end is a decent beach, Playa Brazomar. At the other end of the harbour a couple of imposing buildings stand high over the town. The castle, now a lighthouse and space used for temporary exhibitions, preserves its Templar walls; nearby, the massive church is a surprising building of great architectural and artistic merit. The reliefs on the outside present strange but damaged allegorical scenes of animals kissing and other exotica, while the interior is beautifully Gothic, all arches and blue stained glass; the holy water is kept in a giant clam shell. A picturesque medieval bridge stands nearby. Further around the headland is a beautiful sheltered rockpool, occasionally used as a venue for concerts. Also worth checking is the extravagant and eclectic architecture of the early 20th-century Toki-Eder mansion on the main road leading east out of the centre.

Castro Urdiales is big on traineras, large rowing boats that are raced in regattas on the sea in fierce competition with other towns. These are testosterone-fuelled events that draw big crowds.

West of Castro, the village of Islares has a decent beach, but even better is Oriñón, an excellent stretch of sand dramatically set between rocky mountains, not too spoiled by the somewhat tasteless development behind it.

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