Innovative pre-Romanesque architectural style, dating back in the 9th century
Earthy Asturias has a different feel to much of Northern Spain. It’s a land of mining, fishing and good cheer, exemplified by its superb cider culture – a legacy of the Celts. There are few more interesting places to have a drink than an Asturian sidrería, with sawdust-covered floor and streams of booze poured from alarming heights. Round off the experience with some of the province’s great seafood and you’ll be in gastro heaven.
Asturias has had the foresight to look after its natural heritage. While the province is heavily industrialized, there are vast swathes of untouched old-growth forest inland that still harbour bears and wolves. A well-documented network of trails gives access to these places, maintained by an enthusiastic army of ecologists.
The cities of the region are no less appealing. Oviedo, an elegant and beautiful capital, claims some of the best of the ancient pre-Romanesque architecture left by the Asturian monarchs; Gijón is a lively place with an excellent beach; while Avilés shields a beautifully preserved old town inside an unsightly ring of industry. The nearby airport offers direct budget flights to London.
Although the sea temperatures aren’t exactly Caribbean and rain is never unlikely, it’s not hard to see why the Asturian coast is so popular in summer: the mix of sandy beaches and pretty fishing ports is hard to beat. Hit the east coast for a more developed summer scene, or the west for some more low-key places.
Asturias is a tough, proud land that suffered greatly in the 20th century, when its radical miners were put down brutally by the army in 1934 and again in the Civil War. It is is still one of the more left-wing and egalitarian regions in Northern Spain and, along with Euskadi, in many ways its friendliest. Wherever you head in the province you’re guaranteed a gruff, genuine welcome and the sound of a cider cork popping.
