Fort William, the self-proclaimed ‘Outdoor Capital of the UK’, is also the gateway to the Western Highlands and one of the country’s main tourist centres. It stands at the head of Loch Linnhe, with the snow-topped mass of Ben Nevis towering behind. You could be forgiven for assuming that it’s quite an attractive place, but you’d be wrong. Despite its magnificent setting, Fort William has all the charm of a motorway service station. After passing a string of B&Bs on the southern outskirts the visitor finds a dual carriageway running along the lochside past uninspiring 1960s- to 1970s-era concrete boxes masquerading as hotels. Unsurprisingly, the majority of Fort William’s attractions are out of town. The surrounding mountains and glens are amongst the most stunning in the Highlands and attract hikers and climbers in their droves: Ben Nevis – Britain’s highest peak at 4406 ft – and also the very beautiful Glen Nevis, which you may recognize from movies such as Braveheart and Rob Roy. There are also snowsports on the slopes of nearby Aonach Mor, one of Scotland’s top ski areas. Here, in and above, Leanachan Forest, you’ll find world-class cross-country and downhill mountain biking. Since 2002, Fort William has hosted the annual Mountain Bike World Cup. It will again be staged in 2009.
The town is strung out for several miles along the banks of Loch Linnhe though the centre is compact and easy to get around on foot. Many of the B&Bs and several backpacker hostels and camping options are within Glen Nevis or around Corpach, 1½ miles to the north. Both areas are serviced by frequent buses from the town centre. There are buses every 20-30 minutes to and from Caol and Corpach, and every hour on Sunday and in the evening. Monday to Saturday there is a two-hourly service (No 42) to Glen Nevis Youth Hostel (fewer on Sunday). Buses No 41 and No 42 run daily to Nevis Range during the summer. During the ski season there are at least three daily buses (from 0745) to Nevis Range with the last return journey at 1630.
Fort William is easily reached by bus, from Inverness, Glasgow and Oban, and by train, direct from Glasgow via the wonderful West Highland Railway . The train and bus stations are at the north end of the High Street, next to the supermarket. If you’re driving, parking can be a problem. There’s a big car park beside the loch at the south end of town, and another behind the tourist office. You can also walk to Fort William, if you have a week to spare, from just north of Glasgow, along the 95-mile-long West Highland Way .
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