Lobamba travel guide

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At the eastern end of the Ezulwini Valley before the airport is the royal village of Lobamba, set amongst typical open bush countryside. This is where the present king, King Mswati III, lives and from where he rules Swaziland with his Queen Mother or Ndlovukazi, meaning ‘she-elephant’. Every August the king gets to add to his growing stable of wives at the Umhlanga (Reed) Dance when virgins perform in front of the ‘she-elephant’ and present her with tall reeds which are used to act as windbreakers around her house. It is also the time that the King may pick out his next wife (which doesn’t happen every year) – but is an honour she cannot refuse. The custom has attracted increasing criticism over the years, notably in 2003 when the King’s choice was not supported by the bride’s family. Nevertheless, it is an astounding event, where thousands of young women from across the country congregate and dance bare-breasted in front of a congregation of royalty, subjects and curious tourists. The King currently has 14 wives and 23 children. A Swazi King’s first two wives are chosen for him by a royal council, and within the (somewhat complicated) royal decrees, these two have special functions in rituals and their sons can never claim kingship, so the King’s eldest son is quite often not the heir. The first wife must be a member of the Matsebula clan, the second of the Motsa clan. According to tradition, he only marries his subsequent fiancées, which he chooses at the Reed Dance after they have fallen pregnant; proving they can bear heirs. Until then, they are termed liphovela, meaning ‘brides’.

All of the royal buildings are closed to the public, but the Somhlolo National Stadium is the venue for major celebrations, including sports events, musical shows and royal events such as the annual independence celebrations and the Reed Dance. On no account try to take any photographs of the Lozitha Palace or the Embo State Palace. The parliament buildings are open to visitors but the effort to gain admittance is not worth the tour.