The turquoise and emerald lagoons and dazzling white sands of the Archipelago de Los Roques make up one of Venezuela’s loveliest national parks. For lazing on an untouched beach, or for snorkelling and diving amid schools of fish and coral reefs, these islands cannot be beaten. Diving and snorkelling are best to the south of the archipelago. The islands tend to be very busy in July-August and at Christmas. See http://www.los-roques.com. Also look out for the excellent Guía del Parque Nacional Archipiélago Los Roques (Ecograph, 2004).
Gran Roque (Population: 900) is the main and only permanently inhabited island. The airport is here, as is the national guard, a few small grocery stores and souvenir shops, public phones (expensive internet), a bank with an ATM, medical facilities, dive shops, a few restaurants and accommodation. There is nowhere to change traveller’s cheques. Park Headquarters are in the scattered fishing village. Tourist information is available free of charge from the very helpful Oscar Shop, directly in front as you leave the airstrip. Boat trips to other islands can be arranged here (round trip fares US$15-US$40, depending on distance, more for a tour), which are worthwhile as you can not swim off Gran Roque.
You can negotiate with local fishermen for transport to other islands: you will need to take your own tent, food and (especially) water. Madrisqui has a good shallow beach and joins Pirata Cay by a sandspit. Francisqui is three islands joined by sandspits, with calm lagoon waters to the south and rolling surf to the north. You can walk with care from one cay to the other, maybe swimming at times. There’s some shade in the mangrove near the bar at La Cueva. Crasqui has a 3-km beach with beautiful water and white sand. Cayo de Agua (1 hour by fast boat from Gran Roque) has an amazing sandspit joining its two parts and a nice walk to the lighthouse where you’ll find two natural pools.
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