Montevideo travel guide

Getting around

The Ciudad Vieja can be explored on foot. From Plaza de la Independencia buses are plentiful along Avenida 18 de Julio, connecting all parts of the city. Taxis are also plentiful, affordable and generally trustworthy, although compact. Remises (private driver and car) can be rented by the hour. Full details are given in Local Transport. Note Street names are located on building addresses, not street signs. Some plazas and streets are known by two names: for instance, Plaza de la Constitución is also called Plaza Matriz. It’s a good idea to point out to a driver the location you want on a map and follow your routeas you go. Also, seemingly direct routes rarely exist owing to the many one-way streets and, outside the centre, non-grid layout.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Carrasco International airport is east of the centre, with easy connections by bus or taxi (20-30 minutes to downtown). Many visitors arrive at the port by boat from Buenos Aires, or by boat to Colonia and then bus to the Tres Cruces bus terminal just north of downtown. Both port and terminal have good facilities and tourist information.

Montevideo

Air

The main airport is at Carrasco, 21 km outside the city, T601 1757, http://www.aic.com.uy; left luggage US$1 per day per item; exchange facilities, but if closed, buses will accept US$ for fares to town. If making a hotel reservation, ask them to send a taxi to meet you; it’s cheaper than taking an airport taxi. To Montevideo 30 mins by taxi or remise (US$12-21, depending on destination in the city – may be able to pay taxi driver in Argentine pesos or in US$, or charge it to hotel bill if without cash); about 50 mins by bus. Buses, Nos 700, 701, 704, 710 and 711, from Terminal Brum, Río Branco y Galicia, go to the airport US$1 (crowded before and after school hours); dark brown ‘Copsa’ bus terminates at the airport. COT buses connect airport and Punta del Este, US$7. Pluna runs a bus from Hotel Victoria Plaza, Plaza Independencia to airport at 30 mins past the hour (only for Pluna passengers). IBAT bus service T601 0209/0943 2373. Concorde Travel (Robert Mountford), Germán Barbato 1358, apto 1302, T902 6346/8, has a service from hotel to plane (almost) US$10-25.

Air services to Argentina: for the Puente Aéreo to Buenos Aires, check in at Montevideo airport, pay departure tax and go to immigration to fill in an Argentine entry form before going through Uruguayan immigration. Get your stamp out of Uruguay, surrender the tourist card you received on entry and get your stamp into Argentina. There are no immigration checks on arrival at Aeroparque, Buenos Aires.

Bus

Local

City buses are comfortable and convenient. Pay your fare to the driver or to conductor in the centre of the bus, US$0.60; express buses D1 , D2, D3, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11 US$0.75. There are many buses to all parts from 18 de Julio; from other parts to the centre or old city, look for those marked ‘Aduana’. For Pocitos from city centre take bus No 121 from Calle San José.

Remises

: US$8 per hr; Remises Carrasco, T606 1412, http://www.remisescarrasco.com.uy; Remises Montevideo, Joaquín Requena 1303, T401 1149; Libertad, Plaza Cagancha 1126, T902 4393; Juan Mastroianni, T099-639865 (mob), good, safe, reasonably priced; Guillermo Muñoz, Bartolito Mitre 2636, T707 3928.

Long distance

During summer holidays buses are often full; it is advisable to book in advance (also for Fri and weekend travel all year round).

Buses within Uruguay

: excellent terminal, Tres Cruces, Bulevar Artigas y Av Italia, T408 8710 (10-15 mins by bus from the centre, Nos 21, 64, 180, 187, 188 – in Ciudad Vieja from in front of Teatro Solís); it has a shopping mall, tourist office, internet café, restaurants, left luggage (free for 2 hrs at a time, if you have a ticket for that day, then US$0.70 up to 4 hrs, 24 hrs US$1.75), post and phone offices, toilets, good medical centre, Banco de Montevideo and Indumex cambio (accepts MasterCard). Visit www.trescruces. com.uy for bus schedules. Fares and journey times from the capital are given under destinations.

To Argentina (ferries and buses)

You need a passport when buying international tickets. Direct to Buenos Aires: Buquebus, at the docks, in old customs hall, Terminal Fluvio- Marítima; Terminal Tres Cruces, Local 28/29; in the Radisson, Colonia 751; and Punta Carretas Shopping, loc 219; in all cases T130. 1-3 daily, 3 hrs, US$69 tourist class, US$97 1st class, US$111 special, plus a departure tax of US$1.50 pp. At Montevideo dock, go to Preembarque 30 mins before departure, present ticket and pay exit tax; then go to Migración for Uruguayan exit and Argentine entry formalities. The terminal is like an airport and the seats on the ferries are airplane seats. On board there is duty-free shopping, video and poor value food and drinks. Services via Colonia: bus/ ferry and catamaran services by Buquebus: from 5 crossings daily from 1 to 3 hrs from Colonia, depending on vessel, fares: US$27 tourist, US$37 1st class, US$44 on slowest Eladia Isabel, to US$37, 50 and 55 on fast vessels. All have 2½-hr bus connection Montevideo- Colonia from Tres Cruces, US$11 extra. There are also bus connections to Punta del Este, 2 hrs, and La Paloma, 5 hrs, to/from Montevideo. Cars are carried on either route, US$86-112 Montevideo, US$51-75 and 68-95 (depending on size of vehicle and boat) Colonia; motorcycles US$70 Montevideo, US$34-45 Colonia. Schedules and fares can be checked on http://www.buquebus.com. Fares increase in high season, Dec-Jan, when there are more sailings. Check the website for promotional discounts that may offer up to almost half the price. If you want to break your journey in Colonia, you will have to buy your own bus ticket in another company to complete the trip to/from Montevideo. Colonia Express, W Ferreira Aldunate 1341, T901 9597; also at Tres Cruces bus terminal, T400 3939, www.colonia express.com, makes 2-3 crossings a day between Colonia and Buenos Aires in fast boats (no vehicles) with bus connections to/from Montevideo, Punta del Este and other Uruguayan towns. Fares, including Montevideo-Colonia bus: US$23-48 (much cheaper if bought in advance on the web).

Services to Carmelo and Tigre (interesting trip): bus/ motor launch service by Trans Uruguay/ Cacciola, 3 a day, at Tres Cruces T402 5721, http://www.cacciolaviajes.com, US$27 (52 return); US$18 and 34 respectively Carmelo- Tigre. Bus service via Fray Bentos, Bus de la Carrera (Terminal Tres Cruces 25/26, T402 1313), 2230 daily, plus 1000 on Tue, Thu, US$27, 8 hrs. Bus services also nightly with Cauvi (T401 9196) and Belgrano (T401 4764). Advanced booking is advisable on all services at busy periods. On through buses to Brazil and Argentina, you can expect full luggage checks both by day and night.

To Paraguay, Brazil, Chile

If intending to travel through Uruguay to Brazil, do not forget to have Uruguayan entry stamped in your passport when crossing from Argentina. Without it you will not be able to cross the Brazilian border. To Asunción, Paraguay, US$66, 20 hrs, Wed, Sat at 1300 with EGA, T402 5165 (and Río Branco 1417, T902 5335), recommended, meals served. Alternatively take bus to Santa Fe, Argentina (US$24), via Paysandú bridge, for easy access to Asunción. The through bus route is via Paysandú, Salto, Bella Unión, Uruguaiana, Paso de los Libres, Posadas, Encarnación, to Asunción (there are no passport or customs formalities except passport checks at Bella Unión and at Encarnación). There are very comfortable buses to Porto Alegre (US$38, 12 hrs, daily) and São Paulo (US$89, 30 hrs via Florianópolis, US$60, Camboriú, US$62.50, a good place to stop over, and Curitiba, US$75) with EGA and TTL (Tres Cruces or Río Branco 1375, T401 1410/901 9050, http://www.ttl.com.br), neither daily. An alternative route (which avoids the risk of being stranded at the border by through-bus drivers) is to Chuy, COT, T409 4949, Cynsa T402 5363, or Rutas del Sol, T403 4657 (US$16, 5-6 hrs), then catch a bus to Porto Alegre (7½ hrs, US$33-40), either direct or via Pelotas. Some private tour companies in Montevideo offer excellent deals on overland bus tours to places like Iguazú, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, Bariloche and Santiago (eg MTUR Viajes, http://www.mturviajes.com, recommended).

Taxi

The meter starts at about US$1 in fichas, which determine fares as shown on a table in taxi. Tipping is not expected but welcomed, usually by rounding up the fare. Do not expect change for large peso notes. Prices go up on Sat, Sun, holidays and late at night.

Train

Uruguayan railways, AFE, use outdated trains, but interesting rides for enthusiasts. The old train station has been abandoned, replaced by a nice new terminus next to the Antel skyscraper, known as Nueva Estación Central at Paraguay y Nicaragua (Aguada), T924 8080 or 924 9645, http://www.afe.com.uy. Passenger trains run Mon-Sat only along 2 lines, called 25 de Agosto and Sudriers. Most commuter trains run north between Montevideo and Progreso (about 7 a day), passing some of the country’s poorest areas. Fewer services go beyond Progreso to 25 de Agosto (Florida), passing Canelones and Santa Lucía. Once a day, a service goes as far as San José de Mayo on the same line. Another commuter line runs northeast from Montevideo to Sudriers, passing Pando. To Progreso (50 min, US$0.70), to Canelones (1 hr 20 min, US$0.85), to Santa Lucía (1 hr 35 min, US$1.30), to 25 de Agosto (1 hr 40 min, US$1.30), to San José de Mayo (2½ hrs, US$1.70), to Pando (1 hr, US$0.70). Occasionally, long distance services and a steam-engine run for special events, such as the 48-hr celebration of the Día del Patrimonio (Heritage Day) in Oct. More information, T903 3030 or 924 7328.

Airline offices

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Plaza Independencia 749 bis, T902 3691. Air France/KLM, Río Negro 1354, p 1, T902 5023, http://www.airfrance.com.uy. American Airlines, Sarandí 699 bis y Plaza Independencia, T916 3929. ASATEJ Uruguay, Student Flight Centre, Río Negro 1354, p 2, of 1 y 2, T908 0509. Gol, T606 0901, http://www.voegol.com. Iberia, Colonia 975, T908 1032. LAN, Colonia 993, p 4, T902 3881. Pluna, Colonia 1021, T902 1414, http://www.pluna.aero, Fast Track check-in and bus at Victoria Plaza hotel, Plaza Independencia, near the driveway off Florida. Tam Mercosur, Plaza Cagancha 1335 of 804, T901 8451. For information on flight arrivals/departures, T604 0262, and http://www.tam.com.uy.

Banks

Don’t trust the few black market money changers offering temptingly good rates. Many are experienced confidence tricksters. Casas de cambio on Plaza Cagancha daily until 2200, including Sun; banks only open 1300-1700 (some till 1800). Find most banks along 25 de Mayo, Cerrito or Zabala, and on Plaza Matriz, in Ciudad Vieja, and in the centre along Av 18 de Julio. Banred, http://www.banred.com, is the largest ATM network from where you can withdraw US$ or pesos with a Visa or MasterCard. HSBC, Lloyds TSB, BBVA, Citibank all have Banred ATMs. More ATMs in supermarkets. Airport bank daily 0700-2200. American Express Bank, Rincón 473, T916 0092/916 1162, does not change cash or TCs . Western Union, throughout the city in Abitab agencies, some exchange houses, and Disco or Devoto supermarkets. Exchange houses along 18 de Julio, eg Bacacay, at 853, La Favorita (Amex agents) at 1459, Suizo at 1190, Regul, at 1126, or in Ciudad Vieja, eg Continental, Misiones 1472, Globus, 25 de Mayo 466, but shop around for best rates (rates for cash are better than for TCs, but both are often better than in banks, and quicker service). Brimar, Misiones 1476, and Delta, Río Negro 1341, have been recommended.

Car hire

It is wise to hire a small car (1.3 litre engine) as Uruguay is relatively flat and gas prices are high. A small car can be negotiated for about US$40 per day, free mileage, including insurance and collision damage waiver, if you are hiring a car for at least 3 days (rates are lower out of season).

Cheaper weekly rates available. Best to make reservations before arrival. Autocar, Mercedes 863, T900 5925, autocaruruguay@hotmail.com. Economical, helpful. Punta Car, Cerro Largo 1383, T900 2772, puntacar@ puntacar.com.uy, also at Aeropuerto Carrasco. Snappy, Andes 1363, T900 7728, www.snappy .com.uy. Sudancar, Acevedo Díaz 1813, T402 6620, http://www.sudancar.com.uy. Most car companies don’t allow their cars to be taken abroad. To travel to Argentina or Brazil, you can use Maxicar rentals in Salto.

Cultural centres

Alianza Cultural Uruguay- Estados Unidos, Paraguay 1217, T902 5160, http://www.alianza.edu.uy, library Mon-Fri, 1400-2000, US publications (excellent selection), theatre, art gallery. Instituto Cultural Anglo-Uruguayo (known as the ‘Anglo’), San José 1426, T902 3773, http://www.anglo.edu.uy (theatre, recommended, library Mon-Fri 0930-1200, 1430-1930); café at No 1227. Alliance Française, Blvr Artigas 1229, T400 0505, www.alianza francesa. Edu.uy (theatre, concerts, library, excellent bookshop). Goethe Institut, Canelones 1524, T410 5813, http://www.goethe.de/montevideo (Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri 1000-1300, 1600-1930). Instituto Italiano de Cultura, Paraguay 1177, T900 3354, iicmdeo@ adinet.com.uy. Centro Cultural de España, Rincón 627, Ciudad Vieja, T915 2250, http://www.cce.org.uy, Mon-Fri 1130-2000, Sat 1130-1800, has art exhibitions and a café.

Embassies and consulates

Argentine Consulate, Wilson Ferreira Aldunate 1281, T902 8623, www.consulado argentino.com.uy. Open 1400-1900, visa US$15, 1-day wait, English spoken. Australian Consulate, Cerro Largo 1000, T901 0743, payssed@ adinet.com.uy. Belgian Consulate, Rincón 625, of 26, T916 2719. Brazilian Consulate, Convención 1343, p 6, T901 2024, conbras@consbras.org.uy. Open 0930-1230, 1430-1730 (visas takes 24 hrs and the procedure is more complicated than Buenos Aires – need photo, onward ticket, entry ticket, proof of finances). Canada, Plaza Independencia 749, of 102, T902 2030, http://www.international.gc.ca/ uruguay. Chile, 25 de Mayo 575, T916 4090. Open 0900-1400, visa US$5, same day. France, Uruguay 853, T170-50000, ambafranceuruguay@ gmail.com. Germany, La Cumparsita 1417-35, T902 5222, www.monte video.diplo.de. Open 0930-1230. Israel, Blvd Gral Artigas 1585, T400 4164, ambassadorsec@montevideo.mfa.gov.il. Italy, JB Lamas 2857, T708 4916, ambasciata.montevideo@esteri.it. Netherlands, Leyenda Patria 2880, Apt 202, T711 2956, http://www.holanda.org.uy. New Zealand Consulate, Miguel Grau 3789, T622 1543. Paraguay, Blvd Artigas 1256, T707 2138, embapur@ netgate.com.uy. Summer 0900-1200, winter 1400-1730. Portugal, Av Dr F Soca 1128, T708 4061, portmont@netgate.com.uy. Spanish Consulate, Libertad 2750, T708 0048, conespauy@netgate .com.uy. Sweden, Rambla 25 de Agosto 1825, No 508, of 107, T917 0289. Switzerland, Ing Federico Abadie 2936/40, T711 5545, http://www.eda.admin.ch/ montevideo. UK, Marco Bruto 1073, T622 3630, http://ukinuruguay.fco.gov.uk. US Embassy and Consulate, Lauro Muller 1776, T418 7777, http://uruguay.usembassy.gov.

Internet

Cyberi@, San José 933. Cyber Café, Plaza Cagancha 1340, US$0.60 per hr. Millennium Café, Paraguay 1325, local 53, in mall, US$0.60 per hr. Cyber Café Nacho, Av del Libertador 1607 y Cerro Largo, T903 9070. Open till 2200. Cyber Café El Taller, Juncal 1426. Cyber Café Uruguay, Colonia 1955.

Language schools

Academia Uruguay, Juan Carlos Gómez 1408, T915 2496, www.academia uruguay.com.

Medical services

Hospital Británico, Av Italia 2420, T400 9011. Recommended.

Post offices

Misiones 1328 y Buenos Aires; 0800-1800 Mon-Fri, 0800-1300 Sat and holidays. Poste restante at main post office will keep mail for 1 month. Next to Pluna office on Av Libertador, next to Montevideo Shopping Center, 0800-1300, and under Intendencia at corner of Av 18 de Julio and Ejido, Mon-Fri 1000-2000, Sat 1700-2200.

Telephones

Antel, Fernández Crespo 1534 (headquarters) and at San José 1102 (Plaza), Arocena 1666 (Carrasco), Ariel 4914 (Sayago), Cádiz 3280 (Mercado Modelo), Garzón 1806 (Colón), José Belloni 4445 (Piedras Blancas); for international calls (including USA Direct Express), telex, fax, cables, daily 0800-2000. Long distance operator T120; for Latin America T0007, other countries T0008; special service T124.

Useful

numbers

Information: T141.