From Colonia, Route 21 heads northwest to Carmelo (74 km) on the banks of Arroyo Las Vacas. A fine avenue of trees leads to the river, crossed by the first swing bridge built 1912. Across the bridge is the Rambla de los Constituyentes and the Fuente de las Tentaciones. The church, museum and archive of El Carmen is on Plaza Artigas (named after the city’s founder). In the Casa de Cultura Ignacio Barrios (IMC), 19 de Abril 246, is a tourist office and museum. Historically a mining centre, it is said that many luxurious buildings in Buenos Aires were made from they grey granite of Cerro Carmelo (mines flooded and used for watersports). It is one of the most important yachting centres on Río de la Plata and its microclimate produces much wine.
Calera de Las Huérfanas (Estancia de las Vacas) is the remains of one of the area’s main Jesuit missions. Vines were introduced and lime was exported for the construction of Buenos Aires. After the expulsion of the Jesuits, it became an orphanage. It’s in relatively good state and is best reached by car (exit from Route 21 clearly marked, some 10 km before Carmelo).
Between Carmelo and Nueva Palmira, another river port, is the colonial monument, Capilla de Narbona (Route 21, Km 263), built in the early 18th century. At Granja y Bodega Narbona (http://www.fincaygranjanarbona.com), wine, cheese and other produce are available, as well as a fine restaurant and two exclusive hotel rooms. Nearby, at Km 262, is the luxurious Four Seasons Resort, http://www.fourseasons.com/carmelo.
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