Caacupé travel guide

At Km 54 on Ruta 2, this is a popular resort and religious centre on the Azcurra escarpment. The centre is dominated by the modern Basilica of Our Lady of the Miracles, with copper roof, stained glass and polychrome stone esplanade, consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1988 (US$0.25 to climb the tower). There is an ATM on the plaza between the supermarket and Hotel El Mirador.

Thousands of people from Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina flock to the shrine, especially for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception on 8 December. Besides fireworks and candlelit processions, pilgrims watch the agile gyrations of Paraguayan bottle-dancers; they weave in intricate measures whilst balancing bottles pyramided on their heads. The top bottle carries a spray of flowers and the more expert dancers never let drop a single petal.

Tobati, a town north of Caacupé, specializes in woodwork. A villa artesenal is a short walk from the bus stop outside the house of Zenon Páez, a world famous sculptor. There are some amazing rock formations on the way to Tobati. To get there, take a bus from the corner below the park on the main Asunción road in Caacupé; ask the driver to let you off at Páez’ house.