Museo Parroquial San Rafael

At Km 30, founded in 1728, Itauguá, now Paraguay's fastest-growing city, is where the famous ñandutí, or spiderweb lace, is made. There are over 100 different designs. Prices are lower than in Asunción and the quality is better; there are many makers, but try Taller Artesanal (Km 29), Mutual Tejedoras (Km 28), or Casa Miryam (Km 30, T20372). To watch the lace being made, ask around. The old town lies two blocks from the main highway. Worth seeing are the market (0800-1130, 1500-1800, closed Sun) the church and the Museo de Historia Indígena (Km 25, daily 0800-1130, 1500-1800, US$0.60) a beautiful collection of carvings of Guaraní myths, and the Museo Parroquial San Rafael (daily 0800- 1130, 1500-1800) with a display of indigenous art and Franciscan artefacts. There is a four-day Festival de Ñandutí in early July, including processions and the crowning of Señorita Ñandutí. Many of Paraguay's best traditional musicians perform during the festival. Itauguá is also the birthplace of Juan Crisóstomo Centurión, the only Paraguayan military leader to win a battle in the War of the Triple Alliance and an architect of the country's rebirth.