Penang – or, more properly, Pulau Pinang – is the northern gateway to Malaysia and is the country’s oldest British settlement. It has been sold to generations of tourists as ‘the Pearl of the Orient’, but in shape Penang looks more like a frog than a pearl. Although the island is best known as a beach resort, it is also a cultural melting pot with Chinese, Malay and Indian influences. Georgetown has the largest collection of pre-war houses in all Southeast Asia.
In Malay, pinang is the word for the areca nut palm, an essential ingredient of betel nut. The palm was incorporated into the state crest in the days of the Straits Settlements during the 19th century. Today Pulau Pinang is translated as ‘betel-nut island’.
A free shuttle runs a circuit of 19 tourist destinations in Georgetown daily from 0600-2400 every 15 minutes; stops are marked with red circular signs enclosing a number. There are plenty of city buses and taxis in town. It is possible to hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles to explore the island. Bicycle rickshaws carry two people and are one of the most practical ways to explore Georgetown. RM1 per half mile or RM15 per hour; agree on the route and price first.
Beyan Lepas airport, T04-643 4411, is 20 km south of Georgetown and receives flights from KL, Johor Bahru and Langkawi as well international destinations. Taxis to town operate on a coupon system (30 minutes, RM30). Rapid Penang bus U401 or U401E, RM2, runs from the airport every half an hour from 0635 to 2300. Stops at KOMTAR and Pengkalan Weld. The island is linked with the mainland via the 13-km Penang Bridge (one-way toll to the mainland RM7). There are direct bus links with KL and a host of Peninsula towns, as well as services to Thailand and Singapore. Trains run as far as Butterworth from where ferries make regular crossings, or local taxis make the run across the bridge to the island. Georgetown also has ferry links with Belawan (Sumatra) and Langkawi and from there on to Thailand.
The capital, Georgetown, is on the northeast point of the island, nearest the mainland. The 13 km Penang Bridge, linking the island to Butterworth, is halfway down the east coast. Batu Ferringhi, on the north coast, is Penang’s most famous beach with a strip of luxury hotels. There are secluded coves with good beaches on the northwest tip of the island. The west is a mixture of jungle-covered hills, rubber plantations and a few fishing kampongs. There are more beaches and fishing villages on the south coast. A short, steep mountain range forms a central spine, including Penang Hill, at 850 m above sea level. Street names in Georgetown are known by both their Malay and English names.
Food - Forget Gurney Drive which is over-rated and has changed since the 90s, check out Sg Pinang Food Centre or Batu Ferringhi food court at night which is hidden along the night market street. Try fried kway teow, bbq seafood, satay, roti canai or paper dosai, oyster omelette, wanton noodle and the variety of fresh fruit juices [durian anyone?]. Oh and ice white coffee north Malaysia style [must try]. For the less adventurous there are many cafes and restaurants along the road towards night market serving wood fire pizzas, pastas and all things western - fish & chips anyone?
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