Vientiane travel guide

Vientiane is an ancient city. There was probably a settlement here, on a bend on the left bank of the Mekong, in the 10th century but knowledge of the city before the 16th century is thin and dubious. Scholars do know, from the chronicles, that King Setthathirat decided to relocate his capital here in the early 1560s. It seems that it took him four years to build the city, constructing a defensive wall (hence ‘Wiang’, meaning a walled or fortified city), along with Wat Phra Kaeo and a much-enlarged That Luang.

Vieng Chan, as it was called, remained intact until 1827 when it was ransacked by the Siamese; this is why many of its wats are of recent construction. Francis Garnier in 1860 wrote of “a heap of ruins” and having surveyed the “relics of antiquity” decided that the “absolute silence reigning within the precincts of a city formerly so rich and populous, was … much more impressive than any of its monuments”. A few years later, Louis de Carné wrote of the vegetation that it was like “a veil drawn by nature over the weakness of man and the vanity of his works”.

The city was abandoned for decades and erased from the maps of the region. It was only conjured back into existence by the French, who commenced reconstruction at the end of the 19th century. They built rambling colonial villas and wide tree-lined boulevards, befitting their new administrative capital, Vientiane. At the height of American influence in the 1960s, it was renowned for its opium dens and sex shows.

Today Vientiane is a quiet capital with an urban population of perhaps 460,000 (up from 70,000 in 1960). There are around 695,500 inhabitants (about 10% of the population of Laos) in the Vientiane municipality but this extends far beyond the physical limits of the city. Before 1970 there was only one set of traffic lights in the whole city and, even with the arrival of cars and motorbikes from Thailand in recent years, the streets are a far cry from the congestion of Bangkok. Unlike Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City, there are only scattered traces of French town planning; architecture is a mixture of east and west, with French colonial villas and traditional wooden Lao buildings intermingled with Chinese shophouses and more contemporary buildings. Some locals worry that foreign investment and redevelopment will ruin the city – already some remarkably grotesque buildings are going up – but officials seem to be aware that there is little to be gained from creating Bangkok in microcosm.

For the moment, the city retains its unique innocence: DJs are officially outlawed (although this is not enforced); there is a 2330 curfew; a certain percentage of music played at restaurants and bars every day is supposed to be Lao (overcome by banging out the Lao tune quota at 0800 in the morning) and women are urged to wear the national dress, the sinh. However, to describe the Lao government as autocratic is unfairly negative. Vientiane’s citizens are proud of their cultural heritage and are usually very supportive of the government’s attempts to promote it. The government has tried, by and large, to maintain the national identity and protect its citizens from harmful outside influences. This is already starting to change, as, with the government reshuffle in 2006, came a gradual loosening of the cultural stranglehold.

Banks

There are now around a dozen or more multicard Visa and MasterCard ATMs in the city. The Banque Pour le Commerce Exterieur (BCEL), corner of Fa Ngum and Pang Kham roads, takes all the usual credit cards (maximum withdrawal 700,000 kip; much less on Sun). Other multicard ATMs can be found in front of the Novotel; next to Green Discovery; and beside the petrol station near Wat Simuang. More ATMs are planned in the next few years. BCEL, 1 Pang Kham Rd, traditionally offers the lowest commission (1.5%) on changing US$ TCs into US$ cash; there is no commission on changing US$ into kip; also has an inter- national ATM. Joint Development Bank, Lane Xane Ave, T021-213535, offers good rates on cash advances, ATM.

Embassies and consulates

Australia, Km4 Thadeua Rd, T021-353800, http://www.laos.embassy.gov.au. Britain, contact the Australian Embassy. Cambodia, Tha Deua Rd, Km 3, T021-314952, visas daily 0730-1030; Cambodian visas US$20. China, Thanon Wat Nak Nyai T021-315105. Visas take 4-days. France, Setthathirat Rd, T021-21267400, http://www.ambafrance-laos.org. Germany, 26 Sok Paluang Rd, T021-312110/1. Thailand, Kaysone Phomivane Rd, T021-214581, Mon-Fri 0830-1200 (the consular section has moved to Unit 15, Ban Phonsinaun, T021-415335 ext 605, http://www.consular.go.th; 0830-1200 for visa extensions). If crossing by land, 30-day visas are also issued at the Friendship Bridge. USA, Bartolonies St, Xieng Nyuen, T021-267000, http://www.laos.usembassy.gov. Vietnam, 85, 23 Singha Rd, T021-413401, http://www.mofa.gov.vn/vnemb.la, visas 0800-1045 and 1415-1615. A 1-month visa costs US$45 and you must wait 3 days. It costs an extra US$5 for the visa in 1 day.

Immigration

Immigration office, Phai Nam Rd (near Morning Market), Mon-Thu 0800-1200 and 1300-1800. Visa extensions can be organized for US$2 per day. Overstay, US$10 per day.

Internet cafés have opened up all over the city, many on Setthathirat and Samsenthai roads. You shouldn’t have to pay more than 100 kip per min.

Medical services

2 pharmacies close to the Talaat Sao Bus Station. Australian Clinic, Australian Embassy, T021-413603, Mon-Fri, Fri 0800-1200, 1400-1700, for Commonwealth patients only (except in emergencies). US$60 to see the doctor. Mahasot Hospital, Fa Gnum, T021-214021, for minor ailments. For anything major it is advisable to cross the border to Nong Khai and visit AEK Udon International Hospital, T0066-42342555. In cases of extreme emergency where a medical evacuation is required, contact Lao Westcoast Helicopters, Hangar 703, Wattay Airport, T021-512023, which will charter helicopters to Udon Thani for US$1500- 2000, subject to availability and government approval.

Police

Tourist Police Office, Lang Xang Av, T021-251128.

Post Office, Khou Vieng Rd/Lane Xang Av (opposite market), T021-216425. DHL, Nong No Rd, near the airport, T021-214868, or TNT Express, Thai Airways Building, Luang Prabang Rd, T021-261918.

Telephone

The international telephone office is on Setthathirat Rd, near Nam Phou Rd, 24 hrs.

Most countries have Visa On Arrival (VOA) with similar conditions to entering Thailand. Fees vary according to the passport carried but is nominally USD30-35 payable in USD. Extensions to Visas can be arranged in Vientiane.

If you arrive without the necessary cash at the Int'l Airport at Wattay, they will let through to the ATM then allow you to come back into the arrival hall to obtain your Visa! That gives a clue as to the charm of this country.

Land based entry from Thai border crossings is a hassle-free affair.

Vientiane is small and manageable and is one of the most laid-back capital cities in the world. The local catch phrase ‘bopenyang’ (no worries) has permeated through every sector of the city, so much so that even the mangy street dogs look completely chilled out. The core of the city is negotiable on foot and even outlying hotels and places of interest are accessible by bicycle. Cycling remains the most flexible way to tour the city. It can be debilitatingly hot at certain times of year but there are no great hills to struggle up. If cycling doesn’t appeal, a combination of foot and tuk-tuk or small 110-125cc scooters take the effort out of sightseeing.

Vientiane can be rather confusing for the first-time visitor as there are few street signs and most streets have two names, pre- and post-revolutionary but, because Vientiane is so small and compact, it doesn’t take long to get to grips with the layout. The names of major streets or thanon usually correspond to the nearest wat, while traffic lights, wats, monuments and large hotels serve as directional landmarks. When giving directions to a tuk-tuk it is better to use these landmarks, as street names leave them a little bewildered.

Most visitors arrive in Vientiane by air, the great bulk on one of the daily connections from Bangkok, with Thai Air (http://www.thaiair.com) or Lao Airlines (http://www.laoairlines.com), which also runs international flights from Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and China. Vietnam Airlines (http://www.vietnamairlines.com) runs flights from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Air Asia (http://www.airasia.com) flies from Kuala Lumpur. Wattay International Airport lies 6 km west of the town centre (021-512012). Vientiane is the hub of Laos’ domestic airline system and to travel from the north to the south or vice versa it is necessary to change planes here. The international terminal is the bigger building on the west side. Both terminals have restaurants, telephone, taxi service and information booth. Both airports have taxi desks and the price is fixed at 54,000 kip to the centre (15-20 minutes). The international terminal has ATMs, a post office, hotel desk, internet (upstairs) and a branch of Lao Airlines. Only taxis are allowed to pick up passengers at the airport, although tuk-tuks can drop off here. But tuk-tuks can be taken from the main road and sometimes lurk at the far side of the airport parking area, near the exit (40,000 kip to the centre). The dual carriageway into town is one of only a handful of such stretches of road in the country.

A cheaper alternative from Thailand is to fly from Bangkok to Udon Thani on the budget airline Air Asia (http://www.airasia.com). There are several flights a day to and from Bangkok. Continue by road to Vientiane via the Friendship Bridge, which lies just 25 km downstream from the capital (allow three hours). Shuttle buses from Udon Thani, 80 baht, 4 a day in each direction, run between the bus station and Vientiane. Airport shuttles are available too to the border

There are three public bus terminals in Vientiane. The Southern bus station for destinations in the south of the country is 9 km north of the city centre on Route 13 (021-740521). Most international buses bound for Vietnam depart from here as well as buses to southern and eastern Laos. The station has a VIP room, restaurants, a few shops, mini-mart and there’s a guesthouse nearby.

The Northern bus station is on Route T2, about 3 km northwest of the centre before the airport, 021-261905, and serves destinations in northern Laos. Most tuk-tuks will take you there from the city for 10,000-20,000 kip; ask for Bai Thay Song. There are English-speaking staff at the help desk.

A third bus station is across the road from the Morning Market, in front of Talaat Kudin, on the eastern edge of the city centre (021-216507). This station serves destinations within Vientiane Province, buses to and from the Thai border and international buses to Nong Khai and Udon Thani in Thailand. It is also a good place to pick up a tuk-tuk. Lak Sao, on the border with Vietnam, can be reached by a single 350-km public bus journey from Vientiane. There are also international connections with the private company SDT Transport, 020-2220 5352. All services depart from the Southern bus station. For destinations beyond Vientiane, most people either travel by bus (slow but cheap), tuk-tuk (slower and cheaper) or plane (quick and still cheap by Western standards).