Ins and outs
Laos is a very safe country for tourists but a disproportionate number of accidents and crimes seem to happen in Vang Vieng. Theft is routinely reported, ranging from robberies by packs of kids targeting tubers on the river to the opportunist theft of items from guests’ rooms. Most guesthouses won’t take responsibility for valuables left in rooms, so it is usually advisable to hand in valuables to the management. Otherwise, you will need to padlock your bag. Another major problem is the sale of illegal drugs. Police often go on sting operations and impose fines of up to US$600 for possession. Legal issues aside, many travellers have become seriously ill from indulging in the ‘happy’ supplements supplied by restaurants.
Nearly all buses now arrive at the new bus station 2 km north of town on the road to Luang Prabang – a tuk-tuk from here to town shouldn’t cost more than a few thousand kip. Tour operators will still likely drop you off in town.
Vang Vieng
Bicycle and motorbike
There are many bicycles for rent along the road east up from the old market (10,000 kip per day). There are also a few motorbike rental places (US$5 per day), the best of these is opposite the Organic Farm Café in town.
Bus
All buses now arrive/depart from the new terminal at the New Market, 2 km north of town. Minibuses leave from most guesthouses to both Vientiane and Luang Prabang – this service is notoriously unreliable with passengers packed in like sardines and minivans often breaking down. Best to opt for the local bus. You can catch northbound buses headed from Vientiane to Luang Prabang hourly between 1200 and 2000, 8-10 hrs, 70,000 kip. The bus en route from Vientiane to Phonsovan passes through town at 0900, 85,000 kip. Public buses leave for Vientiane 5 times daily, 3½-4 hrs 25,000 kip; songthaews depart every hour.
Private transport and VIP buses
Tickets are usually sold by guesthouses and will include a tuk-tuk pickup at your hotel to the bus. VIP buses leave for Luang Prabang at 1000, 6 hrs, US$10. The minivans leave at 0900. VIP Bus to Vientiane 1000 and 1300, 3 hrs, 55,000 kip (you are actually better off on the local bus for short stints like this). Minivan to Vientiane 0900, 3½ hrs, 70,000 kip (not recommended). Minibus to Luang Prabang 0900, 5 hrs, 105,000 kip. Every guesthouse and travel agent can book the VIP/minivans and they will pick up from your guesthouse. Seats get booked up really quickly and buses take at least 30 mins to make all their pickups, so expect long delays.
Tuk-tuk
A day trip to the caves should cost US$10 but there have been reports of some drivers offering trips to the caves for 10,000 kip per person and then demanding an outrageous fee for the return leg. Make sure all prices are set in stone before setting off.