Gili Trawangan travel guide

The largest of the three islands – and the furthest west from Bangsal – is Gili Trawangan (Dragon Island). It is the most interesting island because of its hill in the centre; there are several trails to the summit and excellent views over to Mount Rinjani on Lombok from the top. In the opposite direction, you can watch the sun set over Mount Agung on Bali.

There is a coastal path around the island, which takes about 2½ hours to walk. Originally a penal colony, it now supports the greatest number of tourist bungalows. These are mostly concentrated along its east coast, as are a number of restaurants (serving good seafood) and bars. For lone travellers seeking company, this is the best island. But Gili Trawangan is in danger of ruining itself (like so many other tropical island idylls in the region). Indeed, for some it already has. The most developed area is brash, loud and over-developed, but the island is large enough to offer peace and tranquillity as well. Gili Air and Gili Meno are quieter.

The most luxurious accommodation is found in the developed southeast area of the island behind the restaurants; locals already refer to it being like Kuta, although this is an exaggeration. Here you can find well-equipped air-conditioned bungalows with cable TV and personal chefs; unfortunately you lose the peace and beauty associated with a small, relatively undeveloped island, as the accommodation is hidden behind the noisy restaurants away from the beach. To find a quiet tropical paradise, visitors have to accept more basic facilities at the outer edges of the developed areas, particularly the north and northeastern strip of coast, which remains accessible. Here guests can hear the waves lapping against the shore and the birds singing, watch stuning sunrises and sunsets from their verandas and believe they are in paradise. Room rates triple at some of the more upmarket places in the high season. Even off-peak rooms can become scarce, so it is worth arriving on the island early. The cheapest accommodation can be found away from the beach, along the lanes in the village. Gili Trawangan offers the best choice of restaurants of the three Gilis, and many people consider that it has the best snorkelling. Snorkelling is good off the east shore, particularly at the point where the shelf drops away near Horizontal and at the north end of the beach.

Inland from the tourist strip is the original village where life goes on almost as usual, a world apart from the tourists and therefore interesting to stroll through. Further inland there are scattered farms among the coconut groves that dominate the interior, and some pleasant walks to be had....read more