Ins and outs
With the development of Bali into an international tourist resort, many backpackers have moved east and the Gilis are the most popular of the various alternatives. This is already straining the islands’ limited sewerage and water infrastructures, and a walk into the interior of Gili Trawangan will reveal large amounts of rubbish strewn about. During the peak months between June and August, Gili Trawangan becomes particularly crowded and it is advisable to book accommodation in advance.
The attraction of the Gilis resides in their golden sand beaches and the best snorkelling and diving off Lombok – for the amateur the experience is breathtaking. However, the coral does not compare with locations such as Flores and Alor: large sections are dead or damaged (because of dynamite fishing and the effects of El Nino, which raised the temperature of the water). Gili Meno and Gili Air are very quiet, and there is little to do except sunbathe, snorkel, swim, or dive. Gili Trawangan has the same attractions, but has also developed a reputation for its raucous nightlife, the most vibrant in Lombok, and it is the most popular of the islands, particularly with backpackers.
There is no police presence on any of the islands. In the event of anything untoward happening, contact the island’s kepala desa – the village head (guesthouses or any of the dive centres should be able to point you in the right direction).
Getting there
Regular boats from Bangsal to the Gilis wait until about 20 people have congregated for the trip to the islands. Boats can also be chartered for the journey, 45 minutes to Gili Trawangan, 30 minutes to Gili Meno, 20 minutes to Gili Air. In the morning there is rarely a long wait, but in the afternoon people have had to wait several hours. An alternative is to buy a combined bus-and-boat ticket with one of the shuttle bus companies.
Perama have a boat that sails from a small harbour to the north of Senggigi at 0900, costing US$10. This avoids the port of Bangsal. Enquire at the Perama office in Senggigi. There are various alternatives. Within Lombok there are services from Mataram to the Gilis and from Senggigi to the Gilis. (From Senggigi, some of the dive centres operate boats throughout the day.) The most popular way to get to the Gilis from Bali is the Perama ferry from Padangbai, which takes four hours and calls in at all three islands. This costs US$30 and departs at 1330. The cheapest way is to take the slow ferry to Lembar, a shuttle bus to Bangsal and then a public boat to the Gili of your choice. This takes seven to eight hours, and the ferry departs at 0900, and costs US$15 – enquire at tourist offices in Padangbai. Gili Cat (http://www.gilicat.com) have a fast service from Gili Trawangan to Padangbai (Jalan Silayukti, T0363 41441, 1½ hours, US$69) departing at 1200.
Gili Islands
Don’t purchase bus tickets to Senggigi or other Lombok destinations on the islands, they are more expensive. You can purchase a ticket on a shuttle bus to Sengiggi or Mataram at Bangsal for 40,000Rp. The shuttle bus touts will find you when you get off the boat. Be firm in your bargaining.
Boat
Public boats from the islands to Bangsal leave when full, except for Giili Meno, which has 2 sailings a day to Bangsal at 0800 and 1400 approximately, buy your ticket at the harbour. For onward connections to Bali, arrive at the ticket booth by 0730. At Bangsal you can also book through to Bali with 1 of the shuttle bus companies. The ‘Island Hopping’ boat makes 2 round trips a day connecting the islands.
To Bali, Perama have bus-boat ticket combination tickets. The direct Perama boat to Padangbai departs at 0700 and costs US$30. They have connections to other destinations in Bali. Gili Cat,
http://www.gilicat.com, sails direct from Gili Trawangan to Padangbai in 1½ hrs for 1100 US$69.