East Bali, Karangasem and the north coast travel guide

Getting around

While you can reach most of these villages by public bemo, it is better to hire a car. There are many scenic backroads that climb up into the hills, offering spectacular views when the weather is fine; be warned that some of these minor roads are in dreadful condition with numerous, huge potholes. The road leading up from Perasi through Timbrah and Bungaya to Bebandem is especially scenic and potholed. A much better road with outstanding views leads west from Amlapura to Rendang; en route you pass through an area famed for its salak fruit and in the vicinity of Muncan you will find beautiful rice terraces. From Rendang you can continue on up to Pura Besakih.

Getting around

Lombok’s main artery is the excellent road running east from Mataram to Labuhan Lombok. There is now a paved road to Lembar, Praya, Kuta and to Bangsal in the north. Most of Lombok’s roads are paved, but the secondary roads are not well maintained and car travel can be slow and uncomfortable, plus there are hazards of potholes and random rocks.

Bemos and colts are the main forms of transport and a good cheap way to get around the island and, unlike Bali, frequent changes of bemo are not necessary to get from A to B.

Cidomos are a two-wheeled horse-drawn cart. In the west, cidomos are gradually being replaced by bemos, but in the less developed central and east they remain the main mode of local transport and are more elaborate, with brightly coloured carts and ponies decked out with pompoms and bells.

Ins and outs

Getting there

By bus

Buses run most frequently in the morning starting early (from 0500 or 0600), and continue until about 1700. Buses from Denpasar (Batubulan terminal) run to Semarapura (1¼ hours), Padangbai (one hour 50 minutes) and Candi Dasa (two hours 10 minutes). There are also regular bus connections from Gianyar.

Several companies run tourist shuttle buses linking Padangbai, Candi Dasa, Tirtagangga and Tulemben with Ubud, Kuta, Sanur (and Nusa Lembongan by boat), Kintamani, Lovina, Bedugul and Air Sanih; Mataram, Bangsal, the Gili Islands, Kuta Lombok and Tetebatu on Lombok. One of the best is Perama, with offices in all the above places; allow three hours to get to Denpasar airport from Candi Dasa.

Note All times are approximate and can vary enormously depending on traffic conditions from Denpasar, particularly on the main road from Semarapura to Denpasar.

By boat

From Padangbai there is a 24-hour ferry service (leaving every two hours) to Lembar port on Lombok (four to five hours).

Ins and outs

Getting there

Carriers flying to Lombok include SilkAir (T0370 633987, http://www.silkair.com), flying from Singapore and Merpati (T0370 621111), flying from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Internal carriers linking the Indonesian islands include Lion Air (T0370 663444, http://www.lionair.co.id), Garuda (T0370-646846, http://www.garuda_indonesia.com), Merpati and Batavia Air (T0370- 648998, http://www.batavia-air.co.id).

Airport information

Selaparang Mataram Airport lies north of Mataram and 20 minutes south of Senggigi Beach. It is possible to pick up a VOA (visa on arrival) at the airport. There is a money changer, information office and hotel booking counters. There are fixed-fare taxis from the airport to various destinations, bemos from the main road and a public bus to Bangsal (public bus towards Tanjung, ask to be dropped off at Pemenang. They are 500 m from the airport, to the left. When you reach the first crossroads, turn left and wait for your bus connection). A new airport is being built in central Lombok and should be ready in 2010.